Surat Thani - Koh Samui Reminiscing

Koh Samui is today a modern resort island with direct international flights making it easy for tourists to get to the island.

It is not particularly Thai anymore as it competes to find its spot in the market place where other "beach & party islands" like Phuket and Bali vie to attract the same crowd. While Samui tries to move upscale, it still also attracts tourist hordes from Russia and the modern version of backpackers on their way to / from the monthly Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan.

When I first visited Koh Samui, there were no scheduled flights - the airport was tiny (could only be used by single-engine prop planes) and rarely used, there were no Full Moon Parties, and locals seemed mostly engaged in growing coconuts. Many people lived in wooden houses on stilts with their livestock - water buffalo included - roaming around freely.

The beach roads in Chaweng and Rawai were rough gravels roads. Bo Put was a sleepy fishing village where the local shop (too small to be a supermarket) doubled up as restaurant, post office, and exchange booth. There were no resorts with infinity pools and beach chairs, but the beaches were absolutely stunning and totally deserted.

I also remember that my visit to the waterfall was an adventure. Only the main road circling around the island was paved (concrete). All other roads were gravel roads. The road to the waterfall quickly became a track only to be used by motorcycles. A few kilometers from the waterfall, the track became impassible except on foot as it wound its way through the pristine jungle. After a semi-arduous journey, it was with great pleasure one stripped off one's wet T-shirt and jumped into the cold water at the foot of the waterfall.

Today, Samui's beaches aren't deserted and access to sights such as waterfall are neither arduous nor for free.

Trad - Koh Chang Sunsets

As we are getting ready for a busy week - the annual road carnage and excessive water splashing -to celebrate Thai new year, let's pause to appreciate the nature that surrounds us.

Along the west coast of Koh Chang, there are many places to place one self in a bamboo chair and take in sun sets. These are just a couple of the many pictures I have snapped on the beach near Khlong Phrao.

Trad - Koh Chang Reminiscing

To me, Koh Chang, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Phi Phi were the original Bounty islands ... i.e., with beaches and scenery as if they could have been backdrops in commercials for Bounty chocolate bars. That sentence is on purpose in past tense because it was true 20 years ago, but these islands have developed dramatically over the past decades.

The beaches are still stunning and it is still possible - although difficult - to find quiet spots.

During my first visits to Koh Chang, the road from the ferry to Had Sai Kao (White Sand Beach) was only partially paved with concrete. The road stretched from Had Sai Kao to Had Khai Bae (Rooster Crow Beach) was gravel and without bridges at several of the river crossings. The road ended at Had Khai Bae.

The ferries were converted fishing vessels and only for people, not for vehicles. They stopped not only at Ao Sapparot (Pineapple Bay), but continued to Had Sai Kao and Had Khai Bae. So, after I realized that, I stayed on the ferry until last stop.

Back then, there was no entrance fee to visit the waterfall, there were no elephant rides, no condominium developments, and no "gibbon rides". Banana boats could only be found at Had Khai Bae.

Back then, Koh Chang was a heaven for backpackers and students like me on a tight budget. I could take a long weekend trip down (leave Bangkok Friday evening, return Monday evening) for less than 1,300 baht (roughly USD 50 back then) with all my expenses covered.

Today's youth and backpackers require air conditioning and comfort, so prices are obviously a lot higher now. The Robinson Crusoe experience is gone, but the sunsets are still great.