15 years ago, the infrastructure on Koh Chang was very basic. Back then, visitors were mostly intrepid backpackers daring to take exhilarating climb & descent from the pier to reach Had Sai Kao followed by a rough-and-rumble drive over narrow rickety bridges to reach Had Kai Bae. Alternatively, you could stay on the ferry (a slightly converted fishing vessel) and reach Had Kai Bae in a more leisurely manner.
Back then, there were no elephant safaris or 7-Eleven shops, nor any entrance fees to be paid to go swimming in the island's waterfall.
But since 2000, when the road along the western coast line was extended and upgraded, development has gone incredibly fast. Backpackers (now an almost extinct species) have been replaced by mass tourism – a mixture of foreign families on package tours, sex tourists, and affluent Bangkokians.
Trying to escape this commercial onslaught, I sought refuge on Koh Mak and Koh Kham a few years back. For a period, these were nice and relaxing places to walk barefooted on relatively secluded beaches. But sadly, cohorts of luxury demanding tourists soon found their way to Koh Mak resulting in upgrades, price increases, and real estate “development”.
However bad, it is still less intrusive and blatant compared to what has been going on in Cambodia and on Koh Chang over the past 5-6 years. Koh Mak is still worth a visit for those wanting to escape the crowds on Koh Chang.
