Surat Thani - Koh Nang Yuan

One of the most astounding examples of a destination that has gone upscale is Koh Nang Yuan in Surat Thani Province. This small island (looks like three rocks connected by sand barriers that barely exist at high tide) is located a stone-throw from Koh Tao.

Koh Tao used to be a destination for backpackers, then for dive enthusiasts, but now the island has more and more spas and resorts that cater for families. However, in terms of going up-scale, the resort on the privately owned Koh Nang Yuan takes the price.

The marketing concept for Koh Nang Yuan used to be similar to Koh Kood – target weekend visitors from Bangkok – and rustic bungalows (with great views) would cost 800-1,500 baht per night. Today, the island is home to a “dive resort” with luxurious bungalows costing 2,500-7,5000 baht per night.

Despite these to me scary prices, I must admit that this small island is extremely beautiful and a must-see.

My recommendation is to avoid tour operators and do a bit of footwork yourself. Take the night train down to Chumphon and catch a song-taew taxi to the catamaran ferry to Koh Tao (www.lomprayah.com) or drive your own car to the ferry jetty where ample parking is available.

Trang - Koh Laoliang

View of Koh Lipe from Koh Laoliang

Koh Laoliang is one of many beautiful islands in Trang. It is also one of the smallest. It only has one "resort" where guests sleep in large tents. Geographically small, Koh Laoliang is definitely a niche destination and not for those who want hordes of people all around all the time.


Leaving Koh Laoliang

Koh Laoliang is part of a national park and the island's "resort" is managed by the national park service. The island has several good challenges for rock climbing enthusiasts and the use of kayaks is free of charge.

All in all, it a nice place to relax with a book and/or with a "significant other".

However, the food isn't great and sun-seekers will be disappointed to find out that the beach falls into the shade of the rocks by mid-afternoon thus robbing them of precious time under the tropical sun. So, if you are into sun until dinner time and a minimalist night life, the you should go to nearby Koh Lipe.

Trat - Koh Mak

15 years ago, the infrastructure on Koh Chang was very basic. Back then, visitors were mostly intrepid backpackers daring to take exhilarating climb & descent from the pier to reach Had Sai Kao followed by a rough-and-rumble drive over narrow rickety bridges to reach Had Kai Bae. Alternatively, you could stay on the ferry (a slightly converted fishing vessel) and reach Had Kai Bae in a more leisurely manner.


Back then, there were no elephant safaris or 7-Eleven shops, nor any entrance fees to be paid to go swimming in the island's waterfall.

But since 2000, when the road along the western coast line was extended and upgraded, development has gone incredibly fast. Backpackers (now an almost extinct species) have been replaced by mass tourism – a mixture of foreign families on package tours, sex tourists, and affluent Bangkokians.

Trying to escape this commercial onslaught, I sought refuge on Koh Mak and Koh Kham a few years back. For a period, these were nice and relaxing places to walk barefooted on relatively secluded beaches. But sadly, cohorts of luxury demanding tourists soon found their way to Koh Mak resulting in upgrades, price increases, and real estate “development”.

However bad, it is still less intrusive and blatant compared to what has been going on in Cambodia and on Koh Chang over the past 5-6 years. Koh Mak is still worth a visit for those wanting to escape the crowds on Koh Chang.

Rayong - Koh Samed

This island was a great backpacker destination 15 years ago. That was when people didn’t have phone, satellite TV, or internet. Back then, most resorts on the island was connected with the mainland with NMT 470 mobile phones that weren’t mobile unless they were in the trunk of a car. At resorts’ restaurants, they’d show two video movies (video tapes, not DVDs) to keep guests entertained.

Since then, development has moved ahead – faster and faster – and the backpackers have all but gone. In Ao Maprao, a couple of small family-run resorts were razed to make space for a condo building. Jet skis were allowed to race first along White Sand Beach, and then along the whole east coast. And today, all resorts have WiFi as today’s wealthy tourists have to stay in contact with the rest of the world.

I don’t like the crowds, so I haven’t visited Koh Samed much the last few years, but the island still has some impressive bays along the southern part of its east coast.

Trat - Koh Kood

Local mermaid

Koh Kood is one of the few Thai islands of a reasonable size that is still relatively untouched by mass tourism. 

The island’s resorts – probably due to the long time it takes to reach the island from Bangkok – continue to focus on offering 3-4 day packages, i.e., they basically cater to Bangkokians wanting a (long) weekend getaway rather than to mass market foreign tourists staying for one or two weeks. 

Peter Pan, Tinkerbell, and Captain Hook – three resorts with the same owner – are examples of how Koh Kood has gone upscale. I must admit the resorts have been done in great style/design, but I still miss how it was 10 years ago.There are also few budget resorts that attract the few remaining backpackers who still travel the globe.

The island doesn't have “facilities” to serve the cravings of sex tourists, so it is a great family destination. The island’s bays have clear water, the food is good, and unlike a few years back, the GSM and internet connections are excellent.

Prachuab Kiri Khan - Koh Talu

Koh Talu is a small private island in the Gulf of Thailand. It takes about 30 minutes to reach it by boat starting from Bang Saphan, but the duration can be cut in half if taking a speed boat.  The island has two resorts, (in Ao Yai and in Ao Muk), unspoiled beaches, and pristine tropical rain forest. With shallow clear blue sea, the island is a perfect choice for fishing, snorkelling, diving, kayaking, trekking or just simply chilling out. Half day trips to Koh Talu cost around 400 baht per person and depart from the pier towards the south of the bay at 9 AM, returning at 1 PM. You can book tours at a small ticket office the day before - you should do so on weekends. The tours are very popular with people, who travel down from Bangkok on weekends. Coral and marine life around Koh Talu is impressive with schools of sergeant major fish, moon wrasse, parrotfish and all kinds of hard coral. Scuba diving is possible, but the reef is quite shallow with a maximum depth of 12 meters and visibility can be murky (3 to 10 meters). You can also charter your own boat trip to Koh Talu, the advantage being that you can get away from the crowds, go around the island, stop off at any beach and seek out your own snorkeling spots. It costs around 3,000 baht for a boat seating 8-10 people. On the mainland, there are of course also attractions to be found ... like waterfalls, temples, and beaches.Sai Ku and Ka-po are both a short drive south of Bang Saphan. There is another waterfall and swimming hole called Chai Rat just after the Khao Po service station. There are several good beaches south of Bang Saphan while the beach town of Ban Krut to the north is also worth visiting. Bo Thong Lang (pictured left) is a little hidden gem.To reach the bay, cross the small bridge as you are leaving Bang Saphan for Ban Krut. There is a local temple at the same spot and 4-5 small beach restaurants, where the food is excellent.