Surat Thani - Khao Sok

Khao Sok National Park covers an area of 738 sq. km and has spectacular limestone rocks and ridges studded with several large caves. There is pristine rain forest with wildlife sanctuaries and a large network for trekking. Many streams and rivers originate from this watershed and rafting, canoeing, as well as tube tours are arranged daily. These days there are even elephant rides. 

It should be obvious, but the reason it is called a rain forest is that it often rains. So, three out of my four visits to Khao Sok have been wet, but it is just a question of not being discouraged by the weather. 

My first visit ten years ago was the wettest -- and sleeping in a "house" built in a treetop on the bank of a stream did not make things less humid -- but included a great visit to a cave reached by boat (and a trek) from the Rachaprapah Dam. It was a U-shaped cave where the bottom end of the U was very narrow and one had to wade in cold chest-high water. 

Apparently, the treetop house concept caught on, so today there are plenty of fake treetop houses built in concrete. Khao Sok has developed into a popular stop-over for back-packers (if there are any those left) going from Khao Lak to Koh Samui and a weekend destination for nature lovers visiting Phuket or Khao Lak.

For Thais, Khao Sok is mostly famous for Rafflesia, which are the largest flowers in the world, and can grow up to 90cm in diameter. The flower is like a giant red bowl lined with yellow spotted petals. The flowers exude a strong smell – similar to the smell you would expect to find near a rotten carcass or a dustbin - but does fortunately not flower for long.