Sunday, December 29, 2013

Bangkok - Mother of All Traffic Jams

Many people complain every day about Bangkok traffic, but the real monster jams are experienced around New Year. Since I many years ago had the unfortunate experience of getting stuck around Cha Am (200 km south of Bangkok) in a slow-moving queue around of cars heading back from New Year vacation, I have tried to plan my trips to avoid a similar experience. 

However, last New Year, I had underestimated the spread of travel fever and increase in number of vehicles. On January 1st, I ran into a jog lam just north of Khon Kaen (450 km from Bangkok). This year, I planned better. Shortly after lunch yesterday, I was going in the opposite direction of the masses.

When I took the outer ring road at Phatum Thani, direction Bang Na, all lanes in the other direction were jam packed for a distance of around 40 km. Imagine sitting in that lane, starting your New Year vacation by being stuck at the ring road for hours. 
And then realize that this is only the beginning. The highway leading north was moving a snail’s pace all the way to just south of Petchabun (350 km north of Bangkok).

Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Bangkok - Wat Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit is on the edge of Chinatown, located just about a block away from the Grand Palace.

Wat Ratchabophit was constructed during the reign of Rama V and is quite distinct in design and decorations. The temple has the wiharn (prayer hall) and ubosot (ordination hall) linked by a circular courtyard. In most Thai temples, the ubosot is in its own square courtyard. Moreover, all temple structures are covered on the outside by pieces of Thai Benjarong ceramics instead of being plain white like a lot of other temples.
Ubosoth of Wat Ratchabophit
Phra Ubosoth, the main ceremonial building of the temple, is a combination of two different styles. The outer part of the building is in Thai style while the inner part is of Gothic style. The exterior panels of windows and doors have royal insignia inlaid with mother-pearl. The interior ones are designed with a lotus-like lacquer ware work.

The principal Buddha Image is installed in the Phra Ubosoth. It is on a pedestal of Italian marble.
The temple grounds cover a relatively small area, so one doesn't quite get the same sense of tranquility one can get at Wat Pho. On the other hand, there are a lot fewer tourists.

As a sidebar, if you come from Wat Pho or the Grand Palace, you can cross the canal using a footbridge just north of the temple. There, you'll find a gilded statue of a pig. The story is that the footbridge was built by one of the wives of King Rama V. For many years the bridge had no name, but since she was born in the year of the pig, the bridge became known by that name. The statue of the pig was erected later in her honor

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Prachuab Khiri Khan - Bang Saphan

Prachuab is home to the world famous tourist destination, Hua Hin, complete with golf courses, water park and fake floating markets.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/11/prachuab-khiri-khan-hua-hin-floating.html

However, Prachuab has / is much more than Hua Hin. In the southern part of the province, you will find Bang Saphan. It is mostly known as the starting point for the ferry to Koh Talu

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/09/prachuab-kiri-khan-koh-talu.html

But Bang Saphan district should also be considered a tourist destination in its own right. Apart from the obvious attraction of long stretches of nice beaches with very few tourists, it it also an area with numerous small fishing villages where life goes on untouched by the hustle and pollution that Bangkok is known for. As the beaches generally are open and exposed to storms, canals have been dug along (and behind) the beach to ensure that fishing vessels can be tucked away there in bad weather.

20 km north of Bang Saphan, you find Ban Krut (or Kroot) Beach. It is one of the most developed beaches of the area, but it is not busy at all.
Wat Thangsai sits atop a small hill at the north end of Ban Krut Beach. Views of the bay and the ridge of rolling hills inland can be had if one walks the final stretch to the top of the hill.

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Chumphon - Beaches and Sand Dune

Chumphon is a great beach destination.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/01/chumphon-monuments-beaches-and-coffee.html

But the province apparently also has several interesting sand dunes. One is - according to the sign - the most distinct Thai sand dune in Chumphon. That made me wonder whether there are sand dune of other nationalities in Chumphon. I didn't find any, but the question remains unanswered.
Anyway, the sand dune may be distinct, but it isn't impressive.
However, if you want to visit it - or the wide deserted beach - then it is located just south of the border between Prachuap and Chumphon provinces.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Phrachuap Khiri Khan - Monkey Business

Ao Manao is just south of the provincial capital.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/10/prachuap-khiri-khan-ao-manao.html

It markets itself as "City of Dolphins and Monkeys", which may appear a bit weird. But a few kilometers north of the city is Khao Sam Roi Yot (300 Peaks National Park) and just north of that is Dolphin Bay. It is named like this (in English, not in Thai) due to the frequent sightings of dolphins.
At the northern edge of the city is Wat Thammikaram, which to foreigners is marketed as Monkey Temple. The name stems from the fact that many (and I mean many) monkeys live in the temple and on the hill (Khao Chong Krajok), which the temple sits atop. The temple provides excellent views of the bay and countryside, and you can feed or watch the monkeys on your way up the stairs leading to the temple.
Ao Prachuap - viewed from Wat Thammikaram (direction north) with Khao Sam Roi Yot seen in the distance.
View from Wat Thammikaram (direction south) of town with Ao Manao seen in the distance.
The Dan Singkhon Border Crossing (the border to Myanmar) is less than 20 kilometers away from the city in direction south. It is worth a visit if you are in the area anyway.