Bangkok - Mother of All Traffic Jams

Many people complain every day about Bangkok traffic, but the real monster jams are experienced around New Year. Since I many years ago had the unfortunate experience of getting stuck around Cha Am (200 km south of Bangkok) in a slow-moving queue around of cars heading back from New Year vacation, I have tried to plan my trips to avoid a similar experience. 

However, last New Year, I had underestimated the spread of travel fever and increase in number of vehicles. On January 1st, I ran into a jog lam just north of Khon Kaen (450 km from Bangkok). This year, I planned better. Shortly after lunch yesterday, I was going in the opposite direction of the masses.

When I took the outer ring road at Phatum Thani, direction Bang Na, all lanes in the other direction were jam packed for a distance of around 40 km. Imagine sitting in that lane, starting your New Year vacation by being stuck at the ring road for hours. 

And then realize that this is only the beginning. The highway leading north was moving a snail’s pace all the way to just south of Petchabun (350 km north of Bangkok).

Bangkok - Wat Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit is on the edge of Chinatown, located just about a block away from the Grand Palace.

Wat Ratchabophit was constructed during the reign of Rama V and is quite distinct in design and decorations. The temple has the wiharn (prayer hall) and ubosot (ordination hall) linked by a circular courtyard. In most Thai temples, the ubosot is in its own square courtyard. Moreover, all temple structures are covered on the outside by pieces of Thai Benjarong ceramics instead of being plain white like a lot of other temples.

Ubosoth of Wat Ratchabophit

Phra Ubosoth, the main ceremonial building of the temple, is a combination of two different styles. The outer part of the building is in Thai style while the inner part is of Gothic style. The exterior panels of windows and doors have royal insignia inlaid with mother-pearl. The interior ones are designed with a lotus-like lacquer ware work.

The principal Buddha Image is installed in the Phra Ubosoth. It is on a pedestal of Italian marble.

The temple grounds cover a relatively small area, so one doesn't quite get the same sense of tranquility one can get at Wat Pho. On the other hand, there are a lot fewer tourists.

As a sidebar, if you come from Wat Pho or the Grand Palace, you can cross the canal using a footbridge just north of the temple. There, you'll find a gilded statue of a pig. The story is that the footbridge was built by one of the wives of King Rama V. For many years the bridge had no name, but since she was born in the year of the pig, the bridge became known by that name. The statue of the pig was erected later in her honor

Prachuab Khiri Khan - Bang Saphan

Prachuab is home to the world famous tourist destination, Hua Hin, complete with golf courses, water park and fake floating markets.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/11/prachuab-khiri-khan-hua-hin-floating.html

However, Prachuab has / is much more than Hua Hin. In the southern part of the province, you will find Bang Saphan. It is mostly known as the starting point for the ferry to Koh Talu

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/09/prachuab-kiri-khan-koh-talu.html

But Bang Saphan district should also be considered a tourist destination in its own right. Apart from the obvious attraction of long stretches of nice beaches with very few tourists, it it also an area with numerous small fishing villages where life goes on untouched by the hustle and pollution that Bangkok is known for. As the beaches generally are open and exposed to storms, canals have been dug along (and behind) the beach to ensure that fishing vessels can be tucked away there in bad weather.

20 km north of Bang Saphan, you find Ban Krut (or Kroot) Beach. It is one of the most developed beaches of the area, but it is not busy at all.

Wat Thangsai sits atop a small hill at the north end of Ban Krut Beach. Views of the bay and the ridge of rolling hills inland can be had if one walks the final stretch to the top of the hill.

Chumphon - Beaches and Sand Dune

Chumphon is a great beach destination.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/01/chumphon-monuments-beaches-and-coffee.html

But the province apparently also has several interesting sand dunes. One is - according to the sign - the most distinct Thai sand dune in Chumphon. That made me wonder whether there are sand dune of other nationalities in Chumphon. I didn't find any, but the question remains unanswered.

Anyway, the sand dune may be distinct, but it isn't impressive.

However, if you want to visit it - or the wide deserted beach - then it is located just south of the border between Prachuap and Chumphon provinces.

Phrachuap Khiri Khan - Monkey Business

Ao Manao is just south of the provincial capital.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/10/prachuap-khiri-khan-ao-manao.html

It markets itself as "City of Dolphins and Monkeys", which may appear a bit weird. But a few kilometers north of the city is Khao Sam Roi Yot (300 Peaks National Park) and just north of that is Dolphin Bay. It is named like this (in English, not in Thai) due to the frequent sightings of dolphins.

At the northern edge of the city is Wat Thammikaram, which to foreigners is marketed as Monkey Temple. The name stems from the fact that many (and I mean many) monkeys live in the temple and on the hill (Khao Chong Krajok), which the temple sits atop. The temple provides excellent views of the bay and countryside, and you can feed or watch the monkeys on your way up the stairs leading to the temple.

Ao Prachuap - viewed from Wat Thammikaram (direction north) with Khao Sam Roi Yot seen in the distance.

View from Wat Thammikaram (direction south) of town with Ao Manao seen in the distance.

The Dan Singkhon Border Crossing (the border to Myanmar) is less than 20 kilometers away from the city in direction south. It is worth a visit if you are in the area anyway.

Loy Krathong

This event is about getting together with your chosen one and float or launch (loy) a decoration (krathong) to symbolize your life and future together.

This Thai festival is a major revenue earner and the local equivalent of Valentine's Day. There is a very nice story behind the tradition, which is promoted by authorities .... in short, that this tradition was started by a favorite consort of a Sukhothai king.

One weakness about this story is that she (Nopphamat) has never been proven to exist. Another weakness is that a very similar festival is also celebrated in Laos and in Shan State.

And texts written in Bangkok 150 years ago indicate that the tradition originated from a Brahmanical festival, which was modified when Buddhism conquered Southeast Asia. According to those texts, the candle venerates the Buddha, while launching the krathong's symbolizes letting go of one's anger and defilement.

The traditional krathong  was made from a slice of the trunk of a banana tree. Modern krathongs are of styrofoam. Styrofoam is not biodegradable so while the loy krathong festival is romantic, it is an environmental disaster.

In the past, this was a festival mostly celebrated in the provinces where it - like many other festivals - was an occasion for the village community to get together. Still today, some villages arrange that people work together to construct large krathongs that are then launched in a lake or river at night.

Rayong Beaches

A couple of months ago, an oil leak from a tanker was badly managed. As a result, oil slicks marred the sea around Koh Samed. However, PTT (responsible for the leak and for the clean-up) has in recent weeks been busy announcing and advertising that Rayong's beaches are now all clean.

View from Chak Pong Beach westward towards Hin Suay Nam Sai

Today, I visited Chak Pong Beach and Rim Pae Beach, the two best beaches on mainland Rayong. There was absolutely no sign of any oil slicks. The beach sand was nice and the water crystal clear.

View from Chak Pong Beach eastward towards Laem Mae Phim

As the sun was shining, it turned out to be a great day.

Rim Pae Beach - view of Koh Samed

Nakhon Ratchasima - Phi Mai Lightshow

My first blog on Phi Mai was a while back

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/11/nakhon-ratchasima-phimai-historical.html

The Phi Mai sanctuary (Prasat Hin Phi Mai) is also where a “culture” show held one weekend each November. People flock there in droves, so one has to be ready to endure crowds and traffic jams if one decides to take the journey.

What is to be seen is traditional Thai dances with spectacular lighting effects and the Phi Mai ruins forming a stunning backdrop.

If one wants to take it all in, one has to be seated somewhat towards the back. However, while this gives the best view, the distance rendered my phone camera incapable of capturing the beauty of the show.

When visiting Phi Mai, don't forget to grab some local food under the branches of the giant tree at Sai Ngam

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/11/nakhon-ratchasima-sai-ngam.html

Cambodia - Sihanoukville Revisited Again

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2013/03/cambodia-sihanoukville-revisited.html

The beaches of Sihanoukville are beautiful, superb, unspoiled, and relatively unused although the main beach can get crowded on weekends. Here in the rainy season, they are not much of an attraction because when it rains in Sihanoukville, it pours.

However, if you visit during the dry and warm seasons head east of town. There you will soon leave the crowds behind you while the beauty of the beach increases. Soon you will end at an estuary where your main risk is to have the tranquility disturbed by a herd of cows.

There are also beaches to the west of Sihanoukville – for example, Hun Sen Beach located a few kilometers before the oil depot - that are totally deserted. Almost no tourists venture west of the Port of Sihanoukville. The most likely reasons are that the first kilometers of road are in a terrible state of repairs and that this first stretch of road goes through slum-like fishing villages. Those facts will deter most tourists daring to venture outside of town on their own.

Cambodia - Phnom Penh

I like Phnom Penh. In the area around Wat Phnom, there are still several buildings in short distance from each other that showcase the architectural splendor the French colonial masters once provided.

Head office of the Cambodian postal service

Despite the increasingly jam-packed traffic, the pace is still relatively sedate. Based on my personal experience, the relative chaos lends itself best to either getting around as a pedestrian or by renting a motorcycle.

Motorcycle taxis (with two or three wheels) are inexpensive alternatives to the less adventurous visitor. One has to be more adventurous than me to try out the local snacks, which are for sale in the markets and by street vendors.

Fried snacks

Laos - Bajieng Resort

In Champassak province, the heights of the Bolaven Plateau are just east of the Mekong River. The area has numerous waterfalls and coffee plantations.

Green coffee beans

There is also a “cultural theme park”, which has become a hit among Thais traveling on guided tours. If you happen to be in the neighborhood, it is worth a visit.

The “cultural theme park” is actually named Bajieng Resort. The resort opened in December 2003. A Thai national, Wimol Kijbamrung, had worked hard for five years to turn a large undeveloped tract of land into a resort with nature and culture as the its underlying themes. However, one week after the official opening, Khun Wimol came down with a serious bout of malaria and lost his eyesight.

Tad Pha Suam Waterfall

Inside the resort area, there is a stunning waterfall (Tad Pha Suam) with a couple of bridges crossing the river downstream thus creating good spots for taking photos. “Original” houses from different tribes have been erected plus people have been hired to dress up in “original” ethnic outfits, play instruments, play children’s games, weave or whatever so as to create an impression of being in a real rural village. 

It is of course fake, but it seems less fake, less commercial than what can be experienced at assorted hill tribe (long-neck etc) villages in Thailand. The park’s restaurants are quite good and since part of the revenues supposedly goes to support local tribes, one should accept the falseness and consider it “edutainment”. 

Sabaidee

Thailand - SCUBA

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/10/thailand-off-deep-end.html

There is a normally unseen world beneath the ocean’s surface. There are many companies offering trips and certification in diving with Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA) equipment. If you have time and loves the sea, diving is definitely a hobby you should consider taking up.

Don't get too close or I'll bite

Underwater photography can relay the sights that can be had, but diving is an activity that involves all senses (except maybe smelling) and is an exciting and rewarding experience. 

Can you see me?

Moreover, speaking from personal experience, it is an activity that is much more relaxing and overall better in tropical waters than in colder climates.

Kanchanaburi - Sangkhlaburi

My earlier blog was a bit short on appreciation of Sangkhlaburi.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/03/kanchanaburi-off-beaten-track.html

The Three Pagoda Pass was a great disappointment, and that dominated my impression. A return visit has, however, confirmed that the town of Sangkhlaburi is charming. It is located on the edge of a reservoir (Vajiralongkorn Lake) at the end of a long and winding road that offers impressive views. Although "only" 225 km from Bangkok (same distance from Bangkok as Hua Hin is) the geography and topography ensure that the journey takes around 4-5 hours as opposed to the less than three hours it takes to reach Hua Hin.

The lake is a reservoir that was created when a dam was built, submerging most of the original Sangkhlaburi village back in 1982. The village and the villagers were moved to higher grounds and that is the Sangkhlaburi one visits today. All what can be seen of the old village today is some temple ruins. During dry season that is. Otherwise, water levels are high so that only the top of a temple wiharn and a temple tower can be seen. A boat trip on the lake to visit these ruins is a must while in Sangkhlaburi

The town is surrounded to the north and east by forest-covered limestone ranges, and the area is among the most picturesque in all of Thailand. Tiny Karen and Mon villages, caves, and plenty of waterfalls can be found.

In town, the most famous landmark is the the 400 meter long wooden bridge Saphan Mon. It is the longest handmade wooden bridge in Thailand. Be careful when crossing the bridge, as it is maintained in a chaotic manner. You need to be careful of your footing.

Ratchaburi - Suan Pheung Update

Things move ahead in Suan Pheung district

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2013/04/ratchaburi-suan-pheung.html

Since my last visit, they have got far along in the process of expanding the road connecting the provincial capital (Ratchaburi) with the discrict "capital" (Suan Pheung). The number of resorts, coffee shops, and fake sheep farms keep increasing. Note: the sheep are not fake, but the farming is - the sheep are there to allow Bangkokians to come in close contact with cute "nature".

When I visited, the hot spring was crowded with people from Bangkok, but Kaeng Som Maew was not. It seemed only locals were picnicking there and enjoying the rapids. However, there was some screaming when a snake decided to also take a swim in the midst of people enjoying themselves.

Kaeng Som Maew in rainy season

Another relatively undisturbed destination was a seemingly Hindu (or at least Indian) inspired temple. Instead of a Buddha statue, there was a large guy with an elephant's head.

A rather cute concept was that there were two over-sized rat statues ready to grant wishes. One had to whisper the request into one rat ear, while covering the other rat ear (to keep the wish a secret), and the rat would then consider granting the request.

Tell me your dreams

I must not have passed muster because I have not yet won in the lottery.

Ratchaburi - Khao Krajom (2)

In an earlier blog, I vowed to return to Ratchaburi and drive to the top of Khao Krajom during the rainy season.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2013/04/rachaburi-khao-krajom.html

As expected, what had been a walk in the park when the track was bone dry, had now become more challenging. Whereas use of 4WD was merely a recommendation during the dry season, it is a must during the rainy season. And yet, there were only two spots where one had to use the low range and had to be stubborn.

One was a stretch with deep ruts cut by rain water. The computerized traction control (limited slip differential) failed. Limited slip does obviously not mean no slip. Without manual differential locks, the wheel not touching the road spun and no power was transferred to the wheels touching the ground. It took several attempts to find a route up the ascent where the worst ruts were avoided and forward (upward) motion maintained.

The second problem was the very steep final stretch before the peak is reached. It took 3-4 attempts before I found a route where I could gain sufficient speed and traction to power my way up the hill. Again, without manual differential locks, I had to do the climb without finesse.

But I made it to the top.

Khao Krajom - View towards Burma

Kanchanaburi - Huay Mae Kamin Waterfall

There are too many waterfall in Kanchanaburi to mention them all. Some are stunning (like the Erawan falls), while others are merely interesting.

Huay Mae Kamin was a present surprise at the end of an adventurous journey

Huay Mae Kamin Waterfall Level 4

After I had to interrupt an earlier adventure due to lack of fuel

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/03/kanchanaburi-off-beaten-track.html

I this time filled my tank in advance and before again attempting to drive back from Thong Pha Phum along the western fringe of the reservoir behind the Sri Nakharin dam. It worked out well and it was a nice off road experience that by coincidence brought me to the Huay Mae Kamin waterfall.

Of course, everybody else at the waterfall had come the easy way - entered the Khuean Srinagarindra National Park from the south.

Chonburi - Mimosa City of Fakes

Mimosa brands itself as "City of Love", so one could expect it to be related to weddings or romantic dinners. But it is basically three rows of traditional Thai shop-houses that have been converted into a poor replica of various European architectural styles. I cannot figure out how that relates to love.

Mimosa promotes itself as a community lifestyle mall, which - I must admit -  I don't know means.

In this case, the local community would never dream of going shopping at Mimosa. The products offered are aimed at tourists (and priced accordingly) plus there are plenty of food outlets. And judging from the mostly Thai (Bangkokian) visitors, the lifestyle seems to be to snap photos.

Is this a Dutch or a German shophouse ?

Mimosa is yet another" snap cute photos and buy tacky souvenirs" destination, which can be reached on a day trip from Bangkok. It is located on Sukhumvit Road in Na Jomtien, a few kilometers south of Pattaya.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/11/prachuab-khiri-khan-hua-hin-floating.html

Time stands still in Italy

Udon Thani - Well Worth a Visit

I haven’t visited for years. I remember my first visit where I noticed that not only did the city have a large number of massage parlors, but also a large number of folk music bars.

Back then, there were still quite many ageing Americans in Udon (and in surrounding provinces), but their numbers had been trending down for years. Consequently, the U. S. consulate in Udon had recently been closed, so the “guide” during my first visit was a “fixer” living in Nong Khai. A veteran from the Vietnam war that had lived in Isan for many years and was very well connected. He helped “fix” my first entry into Laos, but before that, we took a drive around Udon and Nong Khai that included a visit to the restaurant of a another vet – supposedly this was Isan’s best steak house.

Nong Prachat Park, Udon City

Anyway, today Udon looks much the same although there are fewer Americans and more activities (including folk music bars) have moved out along the ring road. At the city center, Nong Prachat Park is a nice place to relax. It is a swamp that has been converted into a lake with a small island. There are jogging and bicycle tracks running for roughly two kilometers around the shore of the lake.

The city has, of course, also a couple of must visit Buddhist shrines.

Standing Guard

Chaiyphum - Tat Ton Waterfall

Tat Ton National Park is a scenic little spot on the edge of the Laenkha mountain range, 23 km north of the city. Covering 218 sq km, Tat Ton is best known for its photogenic namesake waterfall. Tat Ton waterfall is only 6 meters tall, but stretches to 50 meters in width during the May to October rainy season.

It is a great picnic destination for families and it is among Chaiyaphum's most famous nature destinations.   Rustic bungalows are available riverside, but the English version of the sign leading to the national park's store is a bit mystifying. Major benefits apparently include souvenirs, trinkets, snacks, and cold drinks.

Chaiyaphum - Stonehenge of Thailand

Mor Hin Khao is a number of large rocks in strange and rare shapes similar to mushrooms, boats, elephants, turtles and chedis scattered on a plateau. Moreover, there are five large stone columns standing in a line thus earning the place the nickname "Stonehenge of Thailand". The five stone columns, Grun Sao Hin, rise to heights of as much as 15 meters.

Mor Hin Khow is the most popular part of Phu Laenkha National Park, but the signs giving directions to visitors are few and infrequent. Just as you think you've missed a turn-off, a new sign appears.

Khamphaengphet - a hidden jewel

I must admit that I was positively surprised by Khamphangphet.

All these years, I have been rushing through - or rather, around – the city. But after spending a joyful and relaxed weekend there, I can say it is a place to visit again. The roads along the river are small but not crowded and one can take leisurely walks along the shop houses, stop in small public parks, visit the local market, and take a rest on a small island in the river.

The Scenic Riverside Resort - which I chose from my GPS simply based on its name – turned out to be very neat, fairly priced, and family-run as I like my accommodations to be. The owner’s personal touch was clearly seen in the theme of the bungalows as well as in the interior design accessories. I felt like entering into a teenage girl’s room as the bungalow was cram-packed with stuffed animals and other cute stuff.

In any case, it was a good base for exploring the town and furthermore located in close proximity to the ruins from the town’s grand past. Khamphangphet was a religious center and had an important strategic location (both in terms of military and trade) during the Sukhothai and Aytthaya periods. The ruins are well preserved and the museum exhibition informative. If one is interested in history or simply likes to stroll around and enjoy fresh air under the shade of trees, then a visit to Khamphangphet’s Historical Park (ancient city area) is highly recommended.

Nakhon Nayok - Waterfalls

Nakhon Nayok is a major weekend destination for Bangkokian nature lovers. The province has several waterfalls to visit and plenty of resorts scattered around lush hill sides. Some of the national parks that commonly but incorrectly are referred to by Bangkokians as “Khao Yai” protrude into the northern parts of Nakhon Nayok.

One of the famous waterfalls is Nangrong. It is not a tall or otherwise impressive waterfall, but it is a  very popular destination. It is so, probably because it offers plenty of opportunity for people to settle down for picnic and splash around in the river.

 Another famous waterfall is Sarika, which is located inside a national park. It is a tall waterfall with water flowing in a narrow rapid stream. There are a few places for visitors to splash around, but yet it is a relatively popular destination. The reason why it is famous / popular is probably that the waterfall has an impressive nine levels that combined make a drop of 200 meters from top to bottom.

Near Nangrong, a small detour can take you to the Khlong Tha Dan Dam, which is also referred to as Khun Dan Prakan Chon Dam It is not an especially high or imposing dam, but it is reportedly the largest dam in Thailand based on the number of cubic meters of cement (actually, compacted concrete) used to build the dam.

From the top of the dam, you can take in the view of the valley below and all the way into town. The reservoir behind the dam is woefully underutilized – no boat trips are on offer and no kayaks can be rented. One reason may be that the dam is relatively new (2005) and the tourism industry has not yet put boat trips on the agenda for tours to Nakhon Nayok. 

Nakhon Sawan - where Chaophaya is born

This city is known as the birthplace of the mighty Chaophaya River. It is where the Ping and Nan rivers merge to form the river that makes the central flood plains a huge rice basket and that on occasion threatens to flood Bangkok. 

However, to see the rivers merge is not at all impressive. It felt like a bit of a letdown. I had not expected the same awe as when seeing two rivers merging to form Amazonas, but I had expected something like when Mun River flows into Mekong. Instead, it felt / looked very ordinary.

Likewise, I wasn’t impressed with the town itself, which lacks charm. However, the golden pagoda (Prahulamanee) located at a hill top in center of town looks very impressive, especially when seen in the waning light of a sunset.