Nakhon Phanom - Temples

Wat Okat at Night

There are several beautiful and important temples located in Nakhon Phanom city. At night, they are lit to show their best side and it makes a stroll along the Mekong River interesting. I have chosen Wat Okat as an example of the night time splendor.

The building to the right houses two images carved in wood. According to legend, these two imaged, called Phra Tiu and Phra Thiam, floated across the river roughly 1,000 years ago. These images are very sacred and seen here with very colorful murals on the walls.

I mentioned Wat Phra That Phanom in an earlier blog

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/06/nakhon-phanom-once-upon-time-2.html

Chedi at Wat Phra That Phanon

It is located south of the provincial capital and is probably the most important Buddhist temple in eastern Isan. The 57 meter tall chedi is iconic and presumably contains a piece of the Lord Buddha's chest bone. A large festival to celebrate the temple starts the 10th day of the third lunar month and lasts for a week. This is normally in February, so in about two weeks' time, an estimated 10,000 people will make pilgrimage to the temple.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Tublan Adventure

I went in search of Khao Phang Ma view point on edge of Tublan National Park in the hope of being able to see some gaurs (wild Indian bison or oxen) from afar.

The viewpoint (hill) was not easy to find. Directions on internet were contradictory and my two GPS gave two different locations. I opted for one of these locations. When I missed a turn, the GPS then immediately indicated a short-cut. This turned out to be the worst advice ever given.

The short-cut lead me to drive down a steep muddy descent (no way of getting back up that slippery slope), cross a creek, drive on an overgrown rarely used track, crawl between two small lakes, and then face a muddy incline. It looked easy, but I ended up sliding back down again and again and eventually got stuck. After numerous attempts of digging and piling stones into the ever deeper holes my tires dug, I went for help.

I encountered two national park rangers (apparently, at the steep decline was where I entered the national park), but after some pushing, they came to the same conclusion as me: truck dug in too deep.

Then they went to a nearby village and came back with a guy on a 4WD tractor. He pulled me (backwards) up from the hole, but in the mud, my pick-up started sliding to the left, down towards a small lake. He continued to pull me backwards but jerked to the right. The over-compensation resulted in the truck sliding directly into the bigger lake on the right of the narrow track.

From stuck, I was now REALLY stuck and partly under water.

His 4WD tractor could not pull me anywhere. He sent for a guy with a bigger tractor. 

Disaster has struck

However, rather than pulling me up, he almost ended up being stuck on the same hill where I had encountered problems. After much maneuvering, all his tractor did was making the mud even deeper and stickier.

The guys then sent for a manual winch. After some hard work, the truck got half way out of the water. They sent for another manual winch. The truck got almost out of the water.

Now, while all this is going on, it drizzles but increasing quantities of Thai whisky is being consumed so everybody is in a good mood. In fact, a couple of more guys (and a tractor) arrive to part take in the drinking and winching. People jump into and out of the lake in order to wash off the mud and there is almost a party mood while the dusk settles.

Around six hours have passed and there were now 6-8 villagers taking part in the rescue operation ("taking part" includes mostly drinking). Then a 4WD tractor finally pull the pick-up backwards and up from the lake.

Up it finally comes

Finally up on terra firma. I made a U turn. Winches and people were piled up in the back up my truck. Then, there was the issue that ... I could not go the same way back as I then would have to climb (in the dark) the steep muddy incline where I had first entered the national park.

So, after some palaver, the least drunk villager suggested to chain my truck to a tractor and pull me along a barely visible track through the national park. At one spot, I got stuck again. After several attempts, I got pulled up that hill by two tractors.

The worst was over. The last couple of kilometers, the track was still very muddy, but without inclines so I powered through and out.

Then it was time for dinner (and more whisky) with the rescuers who also received some cash hand outs for their time and efforts without which my truck would still be stuck in that lake.

Next day, I easily made it to the viewpoint without taking any shortcuts.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Khao Phaeng Ma

This hill, which apparently to some resembles the neck of a horse, is located in Wang Nam Khiao district between the borders of Prachinburi Province and Tublan National Park. The peak is 850 meters above sea level. The viewpoint is relatively easy to reach, only four kilometers from the main road. The last part is a rugged dirt road, but I saw several sedans make the trip.

Upon reaching the top, there are views towards Tublan. The Khao Phaeng Ma forest area is under the care of the Wildlife Foundation of Thailand. It covers an area of 16 square kilometers. Activities include trekking along an 1,800 meter track and animal watching.

The main attraction is to spot some of the few remaining wild gaurs. A gaur is a dark-coated bovine native to Southeast Asia and the Indian Subcontinent. It can grow bigger than the African buffalo and water buffalo. It is also in the context of Indian safari tourism called Indian bison.

In Thailand, the gaur is nearly extinct, but has found a safe haven in Tublan, especially in and near the Khao Phaeng Ma forest area. However, gaurs do on occasion venture outside their designated habitat as nearby corn fields provide tempting appetizers.

If you have patience, luck, and a telescopic lense, you can catch a glimpse of gaurs gathering around a salt lick. If not, you can pose with the gaur statue erected at the viewpoint.

Roi Et - Wat Pha Namthip Thep Prasit Varanam

Remembering names is not easy. I was in western Yasothon when somebody spoke highly about Wat Pha Namthip. This was supposedly an amazing temple, which I should not give a miss. So, I followed the directions given and soon crossed into Roi Et province where signs started mentioning Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol.  It turned out that there are two names for the same temple. Locals use the name of the temple whereas visitors tend to use the more grand name for the chedi. 

And it turned out that I have been there before.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/01/roi-et-phra-maha-chedi-chai-mongkhon.html

This time, repair and refurbishment work on the chedi was in process, so it was not easy to take pictures of the impressive interior without scaffolding or tools getting in the way.

From the outside, the pagoda is still impressive as well as huge (101 x 101 meters at the base and 101 meters high). To reach the uppermost room, one has to climb a narrow staircase, before one can pay one's respects as well as donate money to the on-going refurbishment work.

Buengkarn - Phu Tok

I told the story about Phu Tok in an earlier blog.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/01/nong-khai-phu-tok.html

Phu Tok seen from the temple parking lot

I have now visited Wat Chetiya Khiri Vihan again. The rock cropping out in a otherwise flat landscape is still impressive and the network of staircases leading to the top seems only slightly less wobbly.

Gentle reminders at parking lot

In this blog, I will dedicate much more space to photos. The photos combined with the original blog should provide a full picture of the "Phu Tok experience".

It looks safe, doesn't it?

Making your way up is not intended to be easy. Wooden stairways encircle the rock and at certain locations, steep staircases lead to the next level. Except for the final stretch to the top level - this can only be reached by climbing up a path carved into the side of the rock.

7th level is up there - beware of the snakes !

But once the top has been reached, peace and tranquility will surround you. The top "floor" (7th level) is the top of the rock and it is all-natural - no ornate Buddha images or elaborate places of worship.

The path to the top level

The intention is that people shall ponder their values in life and realize that once this life ends, you cannot bring any material things with you to the next life. Moreover, once on top of the rock, it would be silly not to pause and take in the view.

View from the top - temple area and pond in foreground

Nong Khai - Si Chiang Mai

Sala Keo Kou is at the provincial capital

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2013/02/nongkhai-sala-keo-kou.html

Water is not falling

I went 80+ km to the west of Sala Keo Kou to explore a couple of waterfalls - Tan Tip & Tan Thong or Than Thip & Than Thong depending on how you transliterate their Thai names into English. However, since my visit was during the dry season, there was almost no water, so that was a waste of time.

Mekong at Hin Mak Peng

However, Si Chiang Mai is nearby - roughly 65 km to the west of Nong Khai city. The town is located on the banks of Mekong, just opposite Vientiane, the capital of Lao PDR. Its name is derived from Chiang Mai as the Lan Xiang king that founded Si Chiang Mai had a grandmother who was queen of Chiang Mai.

Vientiane at night

That origin of the name is rather irrelevant today, but the location gives for some great nighttime views across the river of Vientiane's lights. So, it is very nice to have dinner at one of the many basic restaurants along the river.

Chedi with the remains of Luangphu Thet

A once famous temple is located bit west of Si Chiang Mai. Wat Hin Mak Peng became the permanent base of Ajarn Thet Thetrangsi from 1977. Before that, he had been a "homeless monk" wandering through the rural areas of Thailand. At that time, Wat Hin Mak Peng was at a very remote location, but Luangphu Thet gained a large following as a master of meditation and teacher in the "forest tradition" (khammatthana) of Theravada Buddhism. He gained such a reputation that he on several occasions were visited by members of the Thai royal family, including by HRH King Bhumibol. Luangphu Thet died in 1994, but the temple is worth a visit. The temple grounds are large and with plenty of trees to provide shade and the temple area is adjacent to the Mekong River.

Wat Hin Mak Peng seen from the river

The Mekong River is in itself an attraction. Nong Khai being so far away from the sea, the river banks serve as beaches and locals also engage in fishing.

In the photo, the guys in blue and orange shirts are holding the two ends of a net they've dragged out into and along the river. They are now about to bring the ends together onshore to collect their catch.

Ubon Ratchathani - Sirindhorn Dam

Ubon is more than waterfalls, two-colored river, and caveman art. Ubon also has beaches. The most popular ones are along the banks of the reservoir formed behind the Sirindhorn Dam.

Ice cream anyone?

One grabs a space in one of the floating "houses" and settles down for some great food, a swim in the reservoir, and a tour on the banana boat. If you want, the ice cream man will bring you refreshments.

Ubon Ratchathani - Pha Taem (Part 4)

Caveman Art

I visited Pha Taem before

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/03/ubon-ratchathani-pha-taem-part-1.html

Back then, I did not think much about that the pre-historic rock paintings were done by cavemen 3-4,000 years ago. However, during my second visit, it hit me that 3-4,000 years ago is not that pre-historic. Ancient Greece was in fact quite developed at that time (the first Olympic games were held 776 BC). Although the exact time when Neanderthals became extinct is disputed, it is around 30,000 years ago rather than 3,000 years ago. Seen in that light, the cavemen art at Pha Taem became somewhat of a puzzle to me.

The View is Still Great

This time, I also ventured to Chanai Dai cliff. As was the case during my first visit, the trip turned out to be an adventure.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/03/ubon-ratchathani-pha-taem-part-2.html

This time, the adventure was weather induced. Roughly half-way across the dozen or so kilometers one has to drive off-road to get to the cliff, the gates of heaven opened and torrents of rain poured down. The off-road (across rocky surface) turns into a narrow track leading through a forest the last couple of kilometers before the ranger station. The rain water took the path of least resistance, which was that track. Driving, there was no way of knowing how deep the water was or whether parts of the track had been washed away.

Game Over - time to make a U-turn

However, with due care and 4WD, I made it to the ranger station. But then, it was game over. It was clear that although the rain had slowed down, the water flowed at ever higher speed. I made a U-turn before reaching the cliff to get out of the forest quickly rather than risk being stuck.

Khon Kaen - More Dinosaurs

On my way to Loei. I saw a road sign and decided to take a detour to a dinosaur museum. It turned out to be located in the middle of nowhere in Khon Kaen - or rather on the road to Phu Wiang National Park. A geological formation – a crescent shaped ridge – leaves only one road in and out to the museum.

A Friendly Dinosaur

The outdoor area covers 160,000 square meters, but the museum itself was not as impressive as the one in Nong Bua Lamphu (http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2013/02/nong-bua-lamphu-dinosaurs.html) and did – as unfortunately is usual in Thailand – charge Caucasians more than Thais. 

A Less Friendly Dinosaur

Since there actually isn’t much to say about dinosaurs in Thailand, the museum also went at some length to explain the evolution of species and geological formations.

Udon Thani - Well Worth a Visit

I haven’t visited for years. I remember my first visit where I noticed that not only did the city have a large number of massage parlors, but also a large number of folk music bars.

Back then, there were still quite many ageing Americans in Udon (and in surrounding provinces), but their numbers had been trending down for years. Consequently, the U. S. consulate in Udon had recently been closed, so the “guide” during my first visit was a “fixer” living in Nong Khai. A veteran from the Vietnam war that had lived in Isan for many years and was very well connected. He helped “fix” my first entry into Laos, but before that, we took a drive around Udon and Nong Khai that included a visit to the restaurant of a another vet – supposedly this was Isan’s best steak house.

Nong Prachat Park, Udon City

Anyway, today Udon looks much the same although there are fewer Americans and more activities (including folk music bars) have moved out along the ring road. At the city center, Nong Prachat Park is a nice place to relax. It is a swamp that has been converted into a lake with a small island. There are jogging and bicycle tracks running for roughly two kilometers around the shore of the lake.

The city has, of course, also a couple of must visit Buddhist shrines.

Standing Guard

Chaiyphum - Tat Ton Waterfall

Tat Ton National Park is a scenic little spot on the edge of the Laenkha mountain range, 23 km north of the city. Covering 218 sq km, Tat Ton is best known for its photogenic namesake waterfall. Tat Ton waterfall is only 6 meters tall, but stretches to 50 meters in width during the May to October rainy season.

It is a great picnic destination for families and it is among Chaiyaphum's most famous nature destinations.   Rustic bungalows are available riverside, but the English version of the sign leading to the national park's store is a bit mystifying. Major benefits apparently include souvenirs, trinkets, snacks, and cold drinks.

Chaiyaphum - Stonehenge of Thailand

Mor Hin Khao is a number of large rocks in strange and rare shapes similar to mushrooms, boats, elephants, turtles and chedis scattered on a plateau. Moreover, there are five large stone columns standing in a line thus earning the place the nickname "Stonehenge of Thailand". The five stone columns, Grun Sao Hin, rise to heights of as much as 15 meters.

Mor Hin Khow is the most popular part of Phu Laenkha National Park, but the signs giving directions to visitors are few and infrequent. Just as you think you've missed a turn-off, a new sign appears.

Yasothon Rocket Festival Bun Bang Fai

Bang Fai is not a military exercise but rather a local version of rain dance. The origin of the festival predates Buddha and it is held annually in Laos and in some parts of northeastern Thailand. The general idea was to shoot rockets up in the sky to wake up the rain god (Phaya Thaen) and kick-start the rainy season to bring much-needed water to the rice fields just as the rice planting starts. Later. Buddhist merit-making was added (Bun) thus making the festival "relevant" even as the religious base of the agrarian society changed away from its animist origin.

In Thailand, the biggest rocket firing takes place in Yasothon every second weekend in May. The festival starts Friday evening with concerts of "mor lam sing", the local folk singing. The city's main road is blocked for traffic and about a dozen stages are built to host the shows – music, raunchy skits, comedy, and traditional dance all at maximum decibel and plenty of alcohol.

Saturday, the main street is taken over by parades with floats and dancers that start / end in temples. 

Then Sunday, it is time for the rockets to be fired. Apart from the serious business of rain-making, there is a competition to be the local rocket champ. The team whose rocket goes the highest is declared the winner. Points are also given for beauty of the vapor trail.

For any team whose rocket doesn’t get off the launch pad, it’s tradition that other teams or spectators dump them in the mud.

At Yasothon, the competition rockets come in three sizes, Meun (10,000), Saen (100,000), and Lan (1,000,000), but this year, there were no lan rockets.

Bang Fai Lan are nine metres long and charged with 120 kg of black powder. These may reach altitudes reckoned in kilometers, and travel dozens of kilometers down range (they can go in any direction) while Saen merely disappear into the clouds. Many rockets have parachutes, but most fall where they may.

For more details on the history behind Bun Bang Fai, check out

http://bun-bangfai.blogspot.com/2009/05/rocket-festival-in-transition.html

Nong Khai - Sala Keo Kou

This place – just east of Nongkhai city center off the road to Phon Pisai and near the alligator farm – is a large collection of concrete statues. To create these statues was the life aspiration of one man, Luang Pu Bunluea Surirat.

Bunleua Sulilat (1932-1996) was a Thai spiritual cult leader that inspired his followers to build numerous concrete sculptures. While he as a young man studied Buddhism, he grew convinced that the teachings of all regions could and should be mixed together. Therefore, there are Buddha images in different poses, Hindu gods, as well as character figures from the Ramayana epic and from Thai folk legends.

His venture into creating sculptures started in 1958 when he – for reasons I don’t know - ventured into Laos and a “Buddha Park” east of Vientiane. Twenty years later, he commenced work on a new sculpture park, Sala Keo Phou, on the other side of the Mekong River. 

I visited that “Buddha Park” almost 14 years ago and really wondered what purpose such a statue collection located 30 kilometers or so from Vientiane served. 

Now, after my visit to Sala Keo Kou armed with vastly improved proficiency in the local language, I have a better idea about the purpose.

Entrance to the Sala Keo Kou used to be free of charge, but a fee of 20 baht per person must now be paid. It was at first 10 baht (and only for white foreigners), but with such a low fee and with only few farang visitors, no income was generated. The money collected goes to spruce up the park with bushes and flowers and to repair / refurbish the concrete statues and their inscriptions. Weather and age were not kind to the statues, so it had become quite a challenge to read the inscription describing the scene depicted.

Now, things are better and it is recommended that you drop by if you anyway happen to be visiting Nongkhai city. 

Nong Bua Lamphu - Dinosaurs

Dinosaurs are everywhere in Isan. I earlier wrote about the very good, but extremely remotely located, dinosaur museum in Kalasin.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/06/kalasin-isan-jurassic-park.html

A very interesting fossils museum is located in Nakhon Ratchasima and in Nongkhai, a dinosaur (wearing a hat) is found outside the aquarium. What a dinosaur has to do with aquatic life is a mystery to me, but equally baffling is that at its feet are statuettes of pigs and sheep, which also don’t have much to do with marine life.

Nong Bua Lamphu also has a dinosaur museum. The impressively named “150 Million Years Stone Shell Museum” is located on the main road (route 216) between Nong Bua and Udon. There isn’t much advance notice or signage about the existence until an initially puzzling warning sign alerts motorists to the fact they are only a few hundred meters from the entrance to the museum.

The museum is worth a visit but only if you anyway are in that neck of the woods. 

Another point of interest nearby is a temple – off highway east of Nong Bua Lamphu town – which is built entirely out of tree trunks and planks collected from nearby forests. The construction is still on-going (as it has been for a decade) as monks and local villagers chip in whenever construction materials become available.

Nong Bua Lamphu - Erawan Cave

The Erawan cave is located in a limestone cliff near the border to Loei. The cave entrance is reached by climbing a long winding trail of stairs, which – without a hint of irony – is named “Stairway to Heaven”. 

The stairs start at a Erawan statue and - after roughly 600 steps - end at the cave entrance where a large Buddha statue sits staring over the rice fields below.

The cave is very large, well lit, and – unlike other caves – spacious as the inside is “open” and nearly devoid of stalactites  This means that there isn’t much spelunking to do; no challenging tight spots, no risk ascends or descends, no need to carry a torch. In a way, it can be described as a family friendly cave.