Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Ubon Ratchathani - Pha Taem (Part 2)


The other parts of the Pha Taem National Park are less accessible. But that is what was the attraction to me. I will not complain about insufficient signage (as the real fault probably is my lack of ability to read Thai), but simply mention that I entered the park "from the back" so to speak.
The asphalt ended at a temple, but my map reading and navigational skills indicated that a track I had just passed would lead me in the direction of Sao Chaliang and other natural attractions, i.e., I figured I had found a shortcut and a way to enter the national park without paying fees.

So, ignorant and stubborn, I took the car onto that track. I admit to continuing even after I passed a sign indicating that I was actually following a track intended for people trekking on foot. 
 I kept pushing on, passing creeks,rocky summits, and forested areas. Now, there weren't many signs along the way, but I managed to find various view points, rock formations (including mushroom-like stone columns, shaped by erosion, with other rocks balancing precariously on top), and ended up at a ranger station by late afternoon.

Not having a place to stay, I tried to find my way back to civilization, but in the darkness, I found the "road" blocked by a fallen tree. In my attempts to get around it, I got the car's paint scratched by bushes and small trees. I couldn't find my way in the darkness.

I returned to the ranger station and was offered to spend the night in a tent for free. However, no food was available.

The next morning, I got up early to watch the sun rise over Mekhong and then walked with a rumbling belly to a nearby waterfall (called Huay Bok) pictured to the right. Even though I visited during the rainy season, there wasn't much water flowing so the holes that had been created in the cliff-side were clearly visible.

Then I had to face the problem of getting out past the fallen tree. But fortunately, two park rangers offered to cut and remove the tree that blocked the path. While they did that, I milled around and realized just how close I had been to driving the car off one of the steep cliffs while fooling around in the pitch dark the night before. I mean, it had been REALLY close to that I and the Fortuner had taken a 200 meter dive. But the view of Laos on the other side of the Mekhong was great.

Just as I was getting on my way, breathing a sigh of relief that the tree had been removed, I realized my fuel gauge was on empty. I had to limp my way along rough tracks and managed to pull into a gas station just outside the park with only fumes left in the tank. It's the only time I've been able to squeeze 70 liters of gasoline into the tank.

After filling the tank - and my stomach - I ventured down a gravel road to see Nam Tok Sang Chang (pictured below). It is one of many waterfalls in the area, but famous because a small stream cascades down through an opening (a hole) in the rock.


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