Surat Thani - City Pillar

Surat Thani City is located at the mouth of the Tapi River.The city pillar (Srivijaya style) is located on the bank of the river right in the old city center. It is absolutely beautiful.

Since Surat's major agricultural products are rambutan and coconuts, there are several monkey training schools in the province. 


Another "specialty" is bull fighting with stadiums around the province taking turn hosting water buffaloes banging it out.

Surat Thani - Chaiya

Chaiya is one of oldest cities in Thailand and is well worth a visit. It was once a thriving center for trade and therefore has plenty of historic sites. Chaiya was a regional capital in the Srivijaya kingdom of the 5th to 13th century - some historians even claim that it was the capital for the kingdom for some time, but this is largely disputed.

More interesting than these disputes is Wat Praborommathatchaiyaratchaworawiham. This temple has an ancient chedi that houses Buddha relics that are highly revered by local residents. The restored Phra Borom That Chaiya is believed to have been built more than 1,200 years ago.

The adjjacent branch of the National Museum has several relicts of that time on display.  

Nakhon Sri Thammarat - Khanom

Khanom Beach is comprised of 3 sandy beaches: Nai Praet, Nai Phlao and Pak Nam. With the hype as usual being the primary means of promotion, this beach is touted as the Riviera of the Gulf of Thailand. Needless to say, this is not true. However, Khanom has managed to become a destination in its own right. Albeit the number of visitors is low, Khanom seems to attract visitors that take a break from Samui.

In my view, especially Nai Phlao isn’t worth a visit unless you are going there to see Khao Wang Thong Cave. If you are going, then check out Suchada Villa, which is a family-owned and family-run resort that offers quality-for-money accommodation. 


http://www.suchadavilla.com/

More interesting, at least in my book, are the beaches in the Sichon district. There, the sand is clean, the beach spacious and un-crowded and the water is clean. The main beach is known as Hua Hin Sichon among the locals. Rocks line the beach all the way to a curved sandy stretch where people can swim. Hin Ngam beach has a unique characteristic in that it is littered with round rocks of various striking colors, hence its name. Kho Khao beach is also a popular beach that connects to Hin Ngam beach.

In the Khanom District, I highly recommend a visit to the Mu Ko Thale Tai National Park. Sure, there is an OK beach to the left when you reach the pier. But do yourself the favor of taking the easy route. Instead, turn right at the pier and take the gravel road that leads you precariously over a ridge and you’ll reach a wonderful and almost desert beach in a small bay.

As the name indicates, the national park is a collection of islands (here viewed from the before-mentioned ridge), so you need to take a boat from the pier to explore those wonderful sights.

Ranong - Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is the (relatively) undiscovered pearl of the Andaman Sea with long white sandy beaches, clear blue sea, coral reefs, it's the perfect place to really get away from it all. But based on my personal experience, it is not a place to go during the rainy season

Koh Phayam is only 10 km long and 5 km wide with population around 500 people. Small roads without cars – just motorcycles and bicycle for cruising around. It takes two hours from Ranong to Koh Phayam by boat and 45 minutes by speed boat.

The island‘s two main bays are Aow Yai and Aow Khao Kwai (pictured). If you get bored of the beach life then there's always the inland experience with several good mini hikes into the hills, forests and jungle.

Koh Phayam is 35 km from Ranong city and close to Burmese St. Matthew's Island. Boat service to/from the Ranong Pier is one time per day in low season (May – October) and twice a day in high season (November – April). Speedboat service runs only in high season.

Buffalo Bay is the quieter beach, especially south east part of the bay. More upscale and better quality resorts dedicated to families with kids, groups and middle age pairs. So quiet in fact that I got bored during my stay there and cut my stay on the island short. That gave me time to revisit not only Ranong's hot springs, but also the Ranong Canyon - which turned out to be a small lake. But as they say, it is the journey and not the destination that matters.

Ranong

Ranong is famous for its hot springs, the Kra Isthmus viewpoint (at the peninsula's narrowest point of 44 km), and for an easy boat ride to a casino in Myanmar.

Ranong’s hot springs used to be difficult to reach and/or too hot, i.e., you could use them to boil eggs, but not as a spa.  For example, the access road to the Chon Rau hot spring used to be too rocky for a sedan to use due the such vehicles' insufficient ground clearance.

Around 5-6 years ago, roads started to be built and most hot springs are now easily accessible. The Raksawarin springs are now a major draw on weekends. However, I still prefer the hot springs in Kanchanaburi and Krabi.

Visitors to Ranong should go to Laem Son National Park. The beach and pine tree areas are “average”, but the attraction is that on the way to the beach, you’ll pass markers indicating how far inland and how high the sea water reached when the Boxing Day tsunami hit that coast in 2004. If you stop in one of the village shops or restaurants, you might get people to talk about their experiences.

Further south in the province is Phraphat Beach, Which is an awesome place for a family picnic. The beach is long, wide, clean and with very few visitors. If you really want to be alone on a beach, take track that leads to Had Ao Jak on the other side of a hill - the picture shows Had Phraphat seen from that hill.

The drive along the Ranong coast line is scenic and really worthwhile. Moreover, if you enjoy driving on serpentine mountain roads, the drive over the ridge running in the middle of the peninsula will be fun. Either cross into Ranong in the north from Chumpon city or in the south of the province coming from Lang Suan.

Prachuap Khiri Khan - Ao Manao

This beautiful semi-circular bay is inside a military base under the care of the Royal Thai Airforce’s Wing 53. Above photo is of a signboard set up next to the beach.

The bay is some 4 km south of Prachuab town center and visitors have to cross a small runway to get to the beach. The beach gets very wide at low tide and is lined with pine trees, so visitors can sit in the shade enjoying good food and fabulous views.

Ao Manao was one of the main points of invasion when the Imperial Japanese Army overran Thailand during the Second World War. But that is not the topic of this blog. Rather, this blog is somewhat retrospective.

Today, Ao Manao is a popular tourist attraction complete with accommodation, shower facilities, and restaurants available for the general public. When I first visited, you’d have to seek permission from senior air force officers on the base in order to be allowed to use one of the then few (but large) bungalows near the beach. The over-night leisure facilities were reserved for military personnel, much like they still are at the Royal Thai Navy’s area / compound east of Sattahip.

Back then, a few students (the active ones) would propose and arrange weekend trips up country for lazy fellow students like me. At least, that’s how it was done at Thammasat University.

Students had to pay 1,000 baht/trip and be ready to get on a mini-van leaving Bangkok Friday evening. The trip organizers would handle all payments during the trip (fuel, food, vehicle rental, accommodation, etc). All expenses would be split equally and we’d would have to top up if there was a deficit.

Each mini-van could carry 10 students and there would normally be 15-20 students joining. Roughly split 50/50 female/male. Leaving Bangkok Friday evening ensured we’d arrive at the destination Saturday morning.

Now, it would have been wise to sleep while being transported, but – alas – it never worked out that way. Invariably, the mini-van would be humming and buzzing with jokes, gossip, idle talk, and innocent flirtations all kept alive with liberal application of Thai whisky (which actually is rum).

After arriving at the destination and checking in, normal people would crash and try to get some sleep. However, on these trips, those annoying active people would drag us lazy bums around to see the local sights. One might then hope for some shut-eye Saturday night, but then somebody would suggest a game of cards combined with more Thai whisky and that would then go on until the wee hours of the morning.

On the way back to Bangkok, the mini-van(s) would stop at various points of interest like waterfalls and famous eateries. In Thailand, no road trip is a success if no good food has been enjoyed and road trips are excellent opportunities to test various local delicacies.


As the van(s) approached Bangkok’s suburbs, the energy levels would drop and finally people started to fall asleep.

Ratchaburi - Suan Peung

In a low-key and gradual manner, the Suan Peung district in Ratchaburi has gained great popularity among Bangkokians that love nature and adventure. The area has several challenging off-road routes, natural wonders, and a wonderful mountain climate.

One example of an attraction is a hot spring with mineral water that is believed to be good skin treatment. The water flows all year round from the Tanaosi Range and its temperature ranges between 50-68 degrees Celsius.
However, I was disappointed that entrance as well as usage fees were demanded. The hot springs I have visited in Kanchanaburi and in Krabi were much better.

Before you reach the hot stream, branch off to see Namtok Kao Chon. The waterfall has nine cascades, but water is only plentiful during the late rainy season.

But what I found most amazing in Ratchaburi was Kaeng Som Mao. It is a small valley formed by the torrents of a river and a great place to relax.

Kaeng Som Mao during dry season

Krabi - Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is a medium-sized island with some very nice and long beaches. As the Ao Nang area got more and more crowded, and as Koh Phi Phi got too commercial, Koh Lanta gained popularity. Back in 2004, real estate developers had started to market the island and plans were hatched to put tarmac on the last strip of dirt road. From 2006, when the tourist arrivals picked up again after having suffered a brief setback due to the tsunami, Koh Lanta had become an important "alternative destination" for tour companies, i.e., crowded, but not as crowded as Phuket, Phi Phi, Ao Nang or Khao Lak.


If you don't seek solitude but don't want too rampant commercialism or in-your-face sex tourism, then Koh Lanta is still a worthwhile holiday destination. However, I prefer to remember it as it once was.

My first visit to Koh Lanta was over 10 years ago -- just after Thai Airways had started domestic flights from Bangkok to Krabi. Back then, access to Krabi's hot spring was free of charge and the Tiger Temple (no live tigers there, but a big rock to climb from where to enjoy the view) was not too crowded. 


And back then, Koh Lanta was still considered a backpacker destination. As roads were considered rough (i.e., unpaved), I was advised not to go there in a sedan. So, a friend of a friend arranged that I borrowed a pick-up truck for the journey from town to island.


That was a great favor so I didn't ask too many questions or check the gifted horse. I was not until I had parked to wait for the ferry that I took a closer look at the truck. And I look twice. It had no license plates nor any registration sticker. 


I immediately called the owner to hear if I missed something. No problem, I was told.  "The Krabi police knows me (and my truck), so I'm never pulled over. If any police tries to make an issue, just call me." Uhm, OK. 


Now, I was already at the ferry so why not continue on to the island. What could possibly go wrong?


And I was wrong. Nothing happened. For three full days, nobody paid any attention to the missing license plates. Meanwhile, I had checked the "credentials" of the vehicle's owner. It turns out that he was the local ringleader for the underground lottery, which explained why he had an "arrangement" with the local police. 


Anyway, sorry for the digression.


I just want to say that Koh Lanta is nice and gets nicer the further south on the island you go, i.e., away from the crowds.