Trad - Koh Chang Reminiscing

To me, Koh Chang, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Phi Phi were the original Bounty islands ... i.e., with beaches and scenery as if they could have been backdrops in commercials for Bounty chocolate bars. That sentence is on purpose in past tense because it was true 20 years ago, but these islands have developed dramatically over the past decades.

The beaches are still stunning and it is still possible - although difficult - to find quiet spots.

During my first visits to Koh Chang, the road from the ferry to Had Sai Kao (White Sand Beach) was only partially paved with concrete. The road stretched from Had Sai Kao to Had Khai Bae (Rooster Crow Beach) was gravel and without bridges at several of the river crossings. The road ended at Had Khai Bae.

The ferries were converted fishing vessels and only for people, not for vehicles. They stopped not only at Ao Sapparot (Pineapple Bay), but continued to Had Sai Kao and Had Khai Bae. So, after I realized that, I stayed on the ferry until last stop.

Back then, there was no entrance fee to visit the waterfall, there were no elephant rides, no condominium developments, and no "gibbon rides". Banana boats could only be found at Had Khai Bae.

Back then, Koh Chang was a heaven for backpackers and students like me on a tight budget. I could take a long weekend trip down (leave Bangkok Friday evening, return Monday evening) for less than 1,300 baht (roughly USD 50 back then) with all my expenses covered.

Today's youth and backpackers require air conditioning and comfort, so prices are obviously a lot higher now. The Robinson Crusoe experience is gone, but the sunsets are still great.