Showing posts with label Ranong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ranong. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Ranong - Khao Fachi Village

Before 1942, the village of Khao Fachi was where the La-un community is now located. The banks of the La-un canal were rich with mangrove forest and the Royal Highway Petchkasem no. 4 ended at the La-un canal. There was no bridge to cross the canal and Ranong City had to be reached by boat.

On December 8th 1941, the Japanese army landed at Pak Nam Chumpon. The Japanese moved quickly and had captured Victoria Point in Burma by the end of December 1941. Because of the difficult terrain, with narrow and steep winding paths, it was not easy to move troops and supplies and heavy weapons could not be transported along this route. Therefore, the idea of constructing a railway parallel to highway no. 4 was hatched.

After landing at Chumpon the Japanese forces looked for a suitable place to set up their headquarters. They established Khao Fachi village (the present Bang Kaeo community) as their military headquarters. This became an important base of a number of bases set up along the Andaman coast. The position was important because troops and supplies could be moved by land, sea and air to strengthen their hold on the region.

The headquarters was established at the top of a hill, at a height of 259 metres. This gave the soldiers a commanding view over the surrounding countryside and from here they were able to observe enemy movements on land, sea and air. The Kraburi, River the La-un canal and the Kema Yai and Maliwan canals in Burma could all be seen from this vantage point.

Anti aircraft guns were situated around the garrison and were used when allied aircraft from Burma bombed and attacked the base with machine guns. For protection the Japanese surrounded the base with air raid shelters and trenches. Camouflaged accommodation for the commissioned and non-commissioned officers was situated in the valley. The camp also had its own water storage systemand a well. The soldier’s quarters were at the foot of the hill.

The complex also included a hospital, kitchens and dining halls, and a railway station. This railway station was the most southern of the military stations. The double railway track allowed the wood-fuelled steam locomotives to make a U-turn and return north. 

Surveying of the railway route began on May 16th 1943. The line ran parallel to the Chumpon-Kra Buri highway to the La-un canal some 90 km away. On May 31 1943 an agreement was signed, between the Thai Supreme Commander and the Commander of the Japanese Army, for the construction of a railway across the Kra Isthmus.

The shortage of labor was a major problem because the majority of Thai villagers were employed in other areas of the war. No heavy earth moving equipment was available and the excavation relied heavily upon manual labor provided by Malaysian and Chinese workers. Thai carpenters were used for the construction of the wooden bridges.

Work on the railway commenced in June 1943 and the rails had been laid by November 1943. Prisoners of war and laborers were brought by train from Chumpon Railway Station. They were then marched a long distance to the construction sites. Many of these workers died from disease. Some of the prisoners escaped to Petchaburi and survived by begging for food from villagers on the way. Prisoners that were recaptured by the Japanese were treated very harshly and returned to prison. 

Railway sleepers and bridges were made from wood and in total 31 bridges were constructed along the route. The track gauge was 56.5 inches, the same as in Malaysia. The rails themselves were brought from Kalantan in Malasia and were transported to the construction sites on freight wagons. The radius of the curves varied between 400 and 1,000 metres. On the entire route there were 137 curves, and 8 cuttings were driven through the landscape. The railway began south of Chumpon and along the length of the railway were six more stations before the tracks ended at Khao Fachi.  

On reaching Khao Fachi the goods were unloaded and transferred to boats for further transport along the La-un canal to the River Kra Buri and hence on to Victoria Point. The Japanese used the railway for just 11 months. Heavy use of the track ceased when, on March 19th 1945, heavy allied bombers attacked the railway and the base at Khao Fachi. Severe damage was caused, destroying part of the track, and sinking boats and supply ships on the La-un canal.

In June 1945, the Japanese dismantled a part of the track, between 28 and 30 km from Khao Fachi quay. The sections were used to repair the damaged track further south. Attempts were made to keep the railway open, but further allied air attacks meant that it could no longer be used for transporting heavy weapons. Only food and light equipment could be moved along it to the soldiers at Victoria Point.

The Japanese surrendered on 10th August 1945 and their army was disarmed. British soldiers dismantled the railway and the rails were returned to Kalantan, Malasia. 
Today, only traces from the path of the railway can be seen running alongside the Petchkasem Highway. Although the railway had been built and used throughout the war, only a very few Thai people know of its existence. 65 years after the Japanese occupation and the building of the railway, very few are aware that at one time Khao Fachi was crowded with Japanese soldiers and prisoners of war.

Now, the remains of guns, ammunition, mortar bombs, as well as of the tunnels, trenches and underground shelters are hidden evidence bearing testimony to the existence of the WWII Military Base. As for the railway, there are overgrown paths, rusty tracks, decaying sleepers, and sadly, the remains of those who died. 

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Ranong - Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is the (relatively) undiscovered pearl of the Andaman Sea with long white sandy beaches, clear blue sea, coral reefs, it's the perfect place to really get away from it all. But based on my personal experience, it is not a place to go during the rainy season

Koh Phayam is only 10 km long and 5 km wide with population around 500 people. Small roads without cars – just motorcycles and bicycle for cruising around. It takes two hours from Ranong to Koh Phayam by boat and 45 minutes by speed boat.

The island‘s two main bays are Aow Yai and Aow Khao Kwai (pictured). If you get bored of the beach life then there's always the inland experience with several good mini hikes into the hills, forests and jungle.
Koh Phayam is 35 km from Ranong city and close to Burmese St. Matthew's Island. Boat service to/from the Ranong Pier is one time per day in low season (May – October) and twice a day in high season (November – April). Speedboat service runs only in high season.
Buffalo Bay is the quieter beach, especially south east part of the bay. More upscale and better quality resorts dedicated to families with kids, groups and middle age pairs. So quiet in fact that I got bored during my stay there and cut my stay on the island short. That gave me time to revisit not only Ranong's hot springs, but also the Ranong Canyon - which turned out to be a small lake. But as they say, it is the journey and not the destination that matters.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Ranong


Ranong is famous for its hot springs, the Kra Isthmus viewpoint (at the peninsula's narrowest point of 44 km), and for an easy boat ride to a casino in Myanmar.
Ranong’s hot springs used to be difficult to reach and/or too hot, i.e., you could use them to boil eggs, but not as a spa.  For example, the access road to the Chon Rau hot spring used to be too rocky for a sedan to use due the such vehicles' insufficient ground clearance.

Around 5-6 years ago, roads started to be built and most hot springs are now easily accessible. The Raksawarin springs are now a major draw on weekends. However, I still prefer the hot springs in Kanchanaburi and Krabi.

Visitors to Ranong should go to Laem Son National Park. The beach and pine tree areas are “average”, but the attraction is that on the way to the beach, you’ll pass markers indicating how far inland and how high the sea water reached when the Boxing Day tsunami hit that coast in 2004. If you stop in one of the village shops or restaurants, you might get people to talk about their experiences.

Further south in the province is Phraphat Beach, Which is an awesome place for a family picnic. The beach is long, wide, clean and with very few visitors. If you really want to be alone on a beach, take track that leads to Had Ao Jak on the other side of a hill - the picture shows Had Phraphat seen from that hill.

The drive along the Ranong coast line is scenic and really worthwhile. Moreover, if you enjoy driving on serpentine mountain roads, the drive over the ridge running in the middle of the peninsula will be fun. Either cross into Ranong in the north from Chumpon city or in the south of the province coming from Lang Suan.