Nakhon Ratchasima - Tublan Adventure

I went in search of Khao Phang Ma view point on edge of Tublan National Park in the hope of being able to see some gaurs (wild Indian bison or oxen) from afar.

The viewpoint (hill) was not easy to find. Directions on internet were contradictory and my two GPS gave two different locations. I opted for one of these locations. When I missed a turn, the GPS then immediately indicated a short-cut. This turned out to be the worst advice ever given.

The short-cut lead me to drive down a steep muddy descent (no way of getting back up that slippery slope), cross a creek, drive on an overgrown rarely used track, crawl between two small lakes, and then face a muddy incline. It looked easy, but I ended up sliding back down again and again and eventually got stuck. After numerous attempts of digging and piling stones into the ever deeper holes my tires dug, I went for help.

I encountered two national park rangers (apparently, at the steep decline was where I entered the national park), but after some pushing, they came to the same conclusion as me: truck dug in too deep.

Then they went to a nearby village and came back with a guy on a 4WD tractor. He pulled me (backwards) up from the hole, but in the mud, my pick-up started sliding to the left, down towards a small lake. He continued to pull me backwards but jerked to the right. The over-compensation resulted in the truck sliding directly into the bigger lake on the right of the narrow track.

From stuck, I was now REALLY stuck and partly under water.

His 4WD tractor could not pull me anywhere. He sent for a guy with a bigger tractor. 

Disaster has struck

However, rather than pulling me up, he almost ended up being stuck on the same hill where I had encountered problems. After much maneuvering, all his tractor did was making the mud even deeper and stickier.

The guys then sent for a manual winch. After some hard work, the truck got half way out of the water. They sent for another manual winch. The truck got almost out of the water.

Now, while all this is going on, it drizzles but increasing quantities of Thai whisky is being consumed so everybody is in a good mood. In fact, a couple of more guys (and a tractor) arrive to part take in the drinking and winching. People jump into and out of the lake in order to wash off the mud and there is almost a party mood while the dusk settles.

Around six hours have passed and there were now 6-8 villagers taking part in the rescue operation ("taking part" includes mostly drinking). Then a 4WD tractor finally pull the pick-up backwards and up from the lake.

Up it finally comes

Finally up on terra firma. I made a U turn. Winches and people were piled up in the back up my truck. Then, there was the issue that ... I could not go the same way back as I then would have to climb (in the dark) the steep muddy incline where I had first entered the national park.

So, after some palaver, the least drunk villager suggested to chain my truck to a tractor and pull me along a barely visible track through the national park. At one spot, I got stuck again. After several attempts, I got pulled up that hill by two tractors.

The worst was over. The last couple of kilometers, the track was still very muddy, but without inclines so I powered through and out.

Then it was time for dinner (and more whisky) with the rescuers who also received some cash hand outs for their time and efforts without which my truck would still be stuck in that lake.

Next day, I easily made it to the viewpoint without taking any shortcuts.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Khao Phaeng Ma

This hill, which apparently to some resembles the neck of a horse, is located in Wang Nam Khiao district between the borders of Prachinburi Province and Tublan National Park. The peak is 850 meters above sea level. The viewpoint is relatively easy to reach, only four kilometers from the main road. The last part is a rugged dirt road, but I saw several sedans make the trip.

Upon reaching the top, there are views towards Tublan. The Khao Phaeng Ma forest area is under the care of the Wildlife Foundation of Thailand. It covers an area of 16 square kilometers. Activities include trekking along an 1,800 meter track and animal watching.

The main attraction is to spot some of the few remaining wild gaurs. A gaur is a dark-coated bovine native to Southeast Asia and the Indian Subcontinent. It can grow bigger than the African buffalo and water buffalo. It is also in the context of Indian safari tourism called Indian bison.

In Thailand, the gaur is nearly extinct, but has found a safe haven in Tublan, especially in and near the Khao Phaeng Ma forest area. However, gaurs do on occasion venture outside their designated habitat as nearby corn fields provide tempting appetizers.

If you have patience, luck, and a telescopic lense, you can catch a glimpse of gaurs gathering around a salt lick. If not, you can pose with the gaur statue erected at the viewpoint.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Phi Mai Lightshow

My first blog on Phi Mai was a while back

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/11/nakhon-ratchasima-phimai-historical.html

The Phi Mai sanctuary (Prasat Hin Phi Mai) is also where a “culture” show held one weekend each November. People flock there in droves, so one has to be ready to endure crowds and traffic jams if one decides to take the journey.

What is to be seen is traditional Thai dances with spectacular lighting effects and the Phi Mai ruins forming a stunning backdrop.

If one wants to take it all in, one has to be seated somewhat towards the back. However, while this gives the best view, the distance rendered my phone camera incapable of capturing the beauty of the show.

When visiting Phi Mai, don't forget to grab some local food under the branches of the giant tree at Sai Ngam

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/11/nakhon-ratchasima-sai-ngam.html

Nakhon Ratchasima - Dan Kwian Pottery Village

One of my first trips outside Bangkok was to Suranaree Technical University's campus (back then, the university was still under construction). On the way back, I was shown around Dan Kwian to see how Thai pottery was done. Back then, the products were mostly for practical purposes, such as collecting rain water.

How things have changed. Dan Kwian has embraced the mass market and now the pottery made is mostly for decorative use. Sure, these farang kids pictured below are cute, and the clay figures probably sell well, but they don't have much to do with Thai culture or with traditional handicraft skills.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Sai Ngam

This public park – named after a nearby village – houses an impressive old tree. Inside the “park”, there is a number of small restaurants, a pond, and a banyan tree. The tree is said to be almost 400 years old, but instead of growing tall and fat, this tree has spent its time spreading out over a large area. According to a sign under the tree, its branches cover an area of 3,500 square feet. Why the sign writer chose to use an American measure of measure is a bit of a mystery, but the equivalent area is 325 square meters.

The pond is artificial as it is actually a small part of the Mun (pronounced moon) River that has been dammed up. That it is a banyan tree that has spread out like this is taken to be important because the Lord Buddha supposedly achieved enlightenment while meditation under the shade of a banyan tree.

The tree has not been promoted much as a tourist destination and is not that well-known even among Thai tourists. Tthe number of signs leading to the park is low and all signs are in Thai. I had not visited the tree for a very long time and passed the park and had to U-turn at the village. In my defense, I’d say that at my previous visits, there was no wall fencing in the tree so this time, I basically ignored the wall.

Anyway, the visit brought back memories of my first trips to Nakhon Ratchasima… to Sai Ngam, Phi Mai, Phi Mai National Museum, Dan Kwian pottery village, Suranaree Technical University, Korat city, and to the WorldTech exhibition. Back then, I was of course younger and was then enlisted to do the obligatory rounds under the belly of the elephant monument downtown.

Back then, construction work at Suranaree Technical University’s campus was only half finished, but classes had started. Today, Suranaree Technical University is in full operation. On campus is the unusual Northeastern Museum of Petrified Wood. Apparently, there are less than ten museums in the world focused on petrified wood, so if that's your thing, it is a must see. 

The museum is in fact well-organized and interesting. A visit is worthwhile. 

Nakhon Ratchasima - Phimai Historical Park

The park is one of the grandest and certainly the most famous Khmer historical site in Thailand. It was one of several sites where pilgrims traveling between the Khmer/Angkor kingdom and India could seek sanctuary.

Despite the Phimai Historical Park being under the same regional head of national parks as Khao Phanom Rung (another famous Khmer sanctuary), the staff at Phimai are more willing to listen to arguments that foreign visitors can enter paying a “Thai” ticket price of 20 baht instead being forced to pay 150 baht.

The Phimai Sanctuary is rectangular in shape, 565 meters wide and 1,030 meters long. It consists of ornately carved structures made of sandstone and laterite. From stone inscriptions and the architectural style, it is surmised that the Phimai Sanctuary was built at the end of the 11th century.

The Naga Bridge is near the park entrance, south of the main pagoda. The intention was for the bridge to represent a link between earth and heaven. The main pagoda is on an open area in a curved walkway. It is the centre of the site and is made entirely of white sandstone and is different from the porches and walls that are made primarily of red sandstone. The pagoda is 28 meters high, has a square base, a portico and stairways and doors in all 4 directions.

The pagoda consists of a base, outer walls, columns, and porches with beautiful designs and lintels. The layout is (of course) like a direct replica of what can be found at Angkor. Of vital importance are the lintels that mostly recount the tale of Ramayana from Hinduism and tales of the Mahayana sect of Buddhism.

Near the historical park is Phimai National Museum. The museum houses exhibits on the past cultural prosperity of the Northeast.