Phang Nga – Koh Phra Thong

Koh Phra Thong Beach - White and Wide

This is a wonderful island with wonderful beaches and highly varied fauna and flora, which make the island a great destination to explore.However, visitors must be ready to accept that this island (supposedly) is the last tambon in Thailand to not have a public electricity grid, which means inhabitants only have electricity for three-four hours each evening. Although there is a ferry from the pier at Muh Koh Surin National Park’s office, there is no fixed schedule for departures. Transport to / from the island is mostly by means of long tail boats with Ban Ded being the main connection point on the mainland. After departure from Ban Ded, one passes through mangrove before crossing a short stretch of open water to reach the island.

All but one of the island’s five resorts have only basic structures (huts or tents) for rent. The Oasis Resort offers the best value for money with extremely friendly owners and large tents right on edge of a magnificent beach.

Around 600 people live on Koh Phra Thong. The island doesn’t have any paved roads, but does have some narrow concrete tracks, barely wide enough for one vehicle, that connect most of the populated locations to each other. Other locations are reached by tracks short-cutting through the wilderness. 

The eastern shores of the island are mostly mangrove forests. If you can get a local to take you around in a small boat to see birds and monkeys.The western shores of the island have kilometer after kilometer of truly unspoiled sandy beaches. There are no beach chairs or sun parasols, but plenty of crabs.

Map of Koh Phra Thong indicating savanna area in red

The interior of the island is dominated by a large sandy savanna – tall grass, shrubs, small trees (mostly pine and cajuput) – with small lakes and ponds full of mussels. The savanna is home to around 70 deer, 40 hornbills, and an unknown number of feral pigs. I borrowed a 20-year old book with information on the island. It listed eight different frogs, but 16 different snakes, so it is advisable to take due care when walking around on the savannah or in the forest on the island.To get around on the savanna is relatively easy in the dry season, but during the rainy season, the tracks turn muddy and often disappear as ponds become lakes.

The island has three villages and the southernmost village, Ban Tungthae, is basically cut off from the rest of the island during the rainy season. It had more than 300 inhabitants 10 years ago. But the tsunami dealt a hard blow to the village from which it hasn’t recovered. At present, Ban Tungthae is home to only around 60 villagers and the school is deserted.

Local Transport

The intermittent supply of electricity, poor infrastructure, and basic accommodation brought back memories of Koh Chang 20 years ago. However, even back then, Koh Chang had far more (backpacker) tourists than Koh Phra Thong has today. Back then, Koh Chang was also a popular destination among adventurous university students from Bangkok whenever there was a long weekend. Koh Phra Thong is far more quiet although it does on occasion get some visitors dropping by on their way to / from Muh Koh Surin or if boat services to Muh Koh Surin are suspended due to rough seas.

Big Bird defending its nest against nosy tourists

In any case, although Muh Koh Surin is amazingly beautiful, it is also small and it is easy to get bored. Koh Phra Thong is far larger and offers a multitude of activities, so it is far easier to spend long time on that island. I highly recommend a visit. 

Chonburi - Sattahip

Samaesan is a small "typical" Thai fishing village just south of the port / base used by the Royal Thai Navy. The smell is the first thing you notice in Samaesan. The pungent smell comes from the cooking, drying and processing of small fish (whatever they are called). During a boat trip you will see thousands of "silver fish" making big jumps out of the water around the boat. Thai people like to eat this fish dried or fried in oil with sugar and salt.

http://samaesan.com/Location/shop-19.html

To escape the smell, visit the beautiful temple on the hill. From there, there is the view of islands just off the coast with their white beaches and crystal-clear water.

The waters around the islands have several coral reefs and the wreck of Hardeep, which was sunk in the Second World War. It is now at the bottom of the sea at 26 meter and is a popular destination for SCUBA divers. The wreck is home to moray eels, sea turtles, and a lot of other marine life.

Wreckdiving is exciting and challenging. But the sea around Samaesan has strong and treacherous currents, which can be dangerous - I ran out of air during one of my Hardeep dives - so one has to be extra careful.

http://www.thaiwreckdiver.com/hardeep_wreck.htm

Thailand - SCUBA

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2012/10/thailand-off-deep-end.html

There is a normally unseen world beneath the ocean’s surface. There are many companies offering trips and certification in diving with Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA) equipment. If you have time and loves the sea, diving is definitely a hobby you should consider taking up.

Don't get too close or I'll bite

Underwater photography can relay the sights that can be had, but diving is an activity that involves all senses (except maybe smelling) and is an exciting and rewarding experience. 

Can you see me?

Moreover, speaking from personal experience, it is an activity that is much more relaxing and overall better in tropical waters than in colder climates.

Thailand - Off the Deep End

In the Andaman Sea and in the Gulf of Thailand, there are plenty of dive sites and SCUBA diving is a popular activity among tourists. However, I was surprised when I heard that dive schools on Koh Tao combined annually issue so many PADI licenses that it makes Koh Tao rank third in the world. I have not been able to independently verify this claim.  

Almost all diving in Thailand is done from boats - big or small - and mostly on daytrips. Live-on-board dive trips is a great option if you have the time and money. Such trips can last from 3-4 days to two weeks and accommodation can be basic or luxurious.

Seeing coral reefs and colorful fish up close is interesting, but more exciting is wreck diving.