Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Ranong - Khao Fachi Village

Before 1942, the village of Khao Fachi was where the La-un community is now located. The banks of the La-un canal were rich with mangrove forest and the Royal Highway Petchkasem no. 4 ended at the La-un canal. There was no bridge to cross the canal and Ranong City had to be reached by boat.

On December 8th 1941, the Japanese army landed at Pak Nam Chumpon. The Japanese moved quickly and had captured Victoria Point in Burma by the end of December 1941. Because of the difficult terrain, with narrow and steep winding paths, it was not easy to move troops and supplies and heavy weapons could not be transported along this route. Therefore, the idea of constructing a railway parallel to highway no. 4 was hatched.

After landing at Chumpon the Japanese forces looked for a suitable place to set up their headquarters. They established Khao Fachi village (the present Bang Kaeo community) as their military headquarters. This became an important base of a number of bases set up along the Andaman coast. The position was important because troops and supplies could be moved by land, sea and air to strengthen their hold on the region.

The headquarters was established at the top of a hill, at a height of 259 metres. This gave the soldiers a commanding view over the surrounding countryside and from here they were able to observe enemy movements on land, sea and air. The Kraburi, River the La-un canal and the Kema Yai and Maliwan canals in Burma could all be seen from this vantage point.

Anti aircraft guns were situated around the garrison and were used when allied aircraft from Burma bombed and attacked the base with machine guns. For protection the Japanese surrounded the base with air raid shelters and trenches. Camouflaged accommodation for the commissioned and non-commissioned officers was situated in the valley. The camp also had its own water storage systemand a well. The soldier’s quarters were at the foot of the hill.

The complex also included a hospital, kitchens and dining halls, and a railway station. This railway station was the most southern of the military stations. The double railway track allowed the wood-fuelled steam locomotives to make a U-turn and return north. 

Surveying of the railway route began on May 16th 1943. The line ran parallel to the Chumpon-Kra Buri highway to the La-un canal some 90 km away. On May 31 1943 an agreement was signed, between the Thai Supreme Commander and the Commander of the Japanese Army, for the construction of a railway across the Kra Isthmus.

The shortage of labor was a major problem because the majority of Thai villagers were employed in other areas of the war. No heavy earth moving equipment was available and the excavation relied heavily upon manual labor provided by Malaysian and Chinese workers. Thai carpenters were used for the construction of the wooden bridges.

Work on the railway commenced in June 1943 and the rails had been laid by November 1943. Prisoners of war and laborers were brought by train from Chumpon Railway Station. They were then marched a long distance to the construction sites. Many of these workers died from disease. Some of the prisoners escaped to Petchaburi and survived by begging for food from villagers on the way. Prisoners that were recaptured by the Japanese were treated very harshly and returned to prison. 

Railway sleepers and bridges were made from wood and in total 31 bridges were constructed along the route. The track gauge was 56.5 inches, the same as in Malaysia. The rails themselves were brought from Kalantan in Malasia and were transported to the construction sites on freight wagons. The radius of the curves varied between 400 and 1,000 metres. On the entire route there were 137 curves, and 8 cuttings were driven through the landscape. The railway began south of Chumpon and along the length of the railway were six more stations before the tracks ended at Khao Fachi.  

On reaching Khao Fachi the goods were unloaded and transferred to boats for further transport along the La-un canal to the River Kra Buri and hence on to Victoria Point. The Japanese used the railway for just 11 months. Heavy use of the track ceased when, on March 19th 1945, heavy allied bombers attacked the railway and the base at Khao Fachi. Severe damage was caused, destroying part of the track, and sinking boats and supply ships on the La-un canal.

In June 1945, the Japanese dismantled a part of the track, between 28 and 30 km from Khao Fachi quay. The sections were used to repair the damaged track further south. Attempts were made to keep the railway open, but further allied air attacks meant that it could no longer be used for transporting heavy weapons. Only food and light equipment could be moved along it to the soldiers at Victoria Point.

The Japanese surrendered on 10th August 1945 and their army was disarmed. British soldiers dismantled the railway and the rails were returned to Kalantan, Malasia. 
Today, only traces from the path of the railway can be seen running alongside the Petchkasem Highway. Although the railway had been built and used throughout the war, only a very few Thai people know of its existence. 65 years after the Japanese occupation and the building of the railway, very few are aware that at one time Khao Fachi was crowded with Japanese soldiers and prisoners of war.

Now, the remains of guns, ammunition, mortar bombs, as well as of the tunnels, trenches and underground shelters are hidden evidence bearing testimony to the existence of the WWII Military Base. As for the railway, there are overgrown paths, rusty tracks, decaying sleepers, and sadly, the remains of those who died. 

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Lopburi

Although once an important city, Lopburi rarely appears on tourist itineraries. Most visitors to the city are Thais on a day trip from Bangkok to see the historic sights (mostly temple ruins like Phra Prang Sam Yot) and / or take photos of the sun flower fields encountered enroute to the city. 


Phra Prang Sam Yot is probably Lopburi's most obvious landmark as is situated smack in the middle of the old city. This temple is quite a sight with its three "prangs" dominating the town center and army of monkeys roaming around the ruins and in streets nearby.  


During the Dvaravati period (6th to 11th century), the city was called Lavo and the Khmer built many impressive temples. Lopburi later liberated itself from Khmer rule and had by the 1300s become associated with the Thai kingdom Sukhothai.


In 1665 King Narai the Great (of Ayutthaya) ordered the construction of a the new palace on the east bank of the Lopburi River and made Lopburi the second capital of the country in middle of the 17th century.

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Loei - Dan Sai

Just a quick note on the side. Take Route 2013 to Dan Sai if you enjoy driving on serpentine roads. I've done the tour three times including once during the middle of the night. That's exciting to drive through sharp turns at speeds where your tyres squeal like pigs when you cannot see what's beyond reach of your headlights. 

If you continue to Phu Ruea, there is a national park as well as good 4WD tracks. 

On the way to Phu Ruea, you pass Chateau de Loei, Thailand's first commercial winery. 

Monday, August 27, 2012

Loei - Phi Ta Khon

Every year in June or July (the date is not fixed), the town of Dan Sai hosts the Phi Ta Khon (or Pee Ta Khon) festival. This year, the festival fell on a weekend so the number of visitors topped 60,000 - hotels as far away a Loei City (80 km away) were fully booked as the festival had been promoted even on CNN. 

The ceremony usually starts as early as 3 AM with a parade of men from Phon Chai Temple in Dan Sai district to the Man River. Before sunrise, they perform a rite to invite Phra Up Pa Khut, which is considered to be a white marble representation of a holy monk having supernatural powers that can change his form to be whatever he likes to be. The procession will then bring Phra Up Pa Khut back to the temple where the sacred worship will begin.
The colourful activities begin on the second day at dawn with local people dressed as Phi Ta Khon. They cheerfully perform and dance around the village in the afternoon.  Beautifully decorated cars make up the street parade adorned by colourful flowers and candles. Late on the second day, bamboo rockets will be launched into the sky to encourage rain clouds to soak the fields prior to rice planting.


Phi Ta Khon is one half of a festival known as 'Bun Pha Ves.' The other half is the Bun Bang Fai, a festival held to "celebrate" fertility -- the Phi Ta Khon dancers cheerfully wave giant wooden phalluses around and the rockets are also potent symbols of male virility. 

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Loei - Chiang Khan

A visit to Chiang Khan was to me like a blast from the past - a past long gone. As little as nine years ago, Chiang Khan was a sleepy little town. There was nothing unusual about the town, nothing to keep passers-through from not simply passing through. Today, the town has converted a stretch of a narrow street (along the banks of the Mekong River) into "how rural Thailand once was".
It is about as real as Disneyland, but Bangkokians ignore the "make believe" aspects and focus on the cute photo opportunities provided. The atmosphere is fake, but Bangkokians can come up and wander along the street, take pictures, check out tacky souvenirs, and hang out in retro-style cafes and mini-bars in their designer clothes. The main hassle the city slickers face is the scarcity of parking space.


Personally, I prefer to stay a bit further down the river. The Mekong at Chiang Khan is quite wide and do not seem to flow anywhere. A few kilometers downriver, however, the Mekong breaks up into pools of still water during the dry season, while it flows at a rapid pace in a narrow canal close to the Laotian side.


Sunday, August 12, 2012

Phitsanulok - Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park (2)

As I wrote, to approach this national park from the east (i.e., from Lomsak) is the best option by far if you like to drive up serpentine roads enjoying wonderful views.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/01/phu-hin-rong-kla-national-park.html

This time, I started at the other end of the park and therefore had to drive down the serpentine road. Such a descent has never before been a challenge. However, this time, I was not only driving a car with automatic gearshift (next to no engine brake) but I was also driving a Toyota Fortuner - a vehicle notorious for its weak brakes. 2/3 down, the brakes had gotten so warm that they stopped working. I pulled over, swearing, and missing my sturdy D-Max with manual gearshift.

Not being an overly patient driver, I soon decided to ignore that minor issue and continued rolling down in the lowest gear possible.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Loei - Suan Hin Pha Ngam (2)

A new year, a new visit. This time, I managed to find the way on my own without the help of an entrepreneurial park ranger

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/12/loei-suan-hin-pha-ngam.html

This time, I paid a small fee, which covered transport in a rustic taek-taek - one of many that line up to take people to (or from) one end of the walking trail.

Moreover, a guide also caught up with me, but after seeing that I knew my way along the trail and verified that I'd been there before, she didn't provide an explanation of any kind to any of the things we encountered on the trail.
Anyway, it was still an enjoyable trek through and past various rock formations and "gardens" (mini forests). And the view from the top is quite impressive.