Friday, December 23, 2011

Chantaburi - Laem Singh

Apart from Chao Lao beach, Chantaburi has many interesting sites to visit near Laem Singh, e.g., a local version of Seaworld, Khuk Khi Kai (chicken shit prison), temples, waterfalls, and a maritime museum. One of the most famous waterfalls is Phliu. The water falls 20 meters and at the foot of the waterfall, there is a pyramid and a statue in memory of King Rama V's beloved queen who drowned in a boating accident on the Chao Phraya River. 
A concrete path leads to the waterfall - passing places where you can feed veggies to gluttonous fish - but there are also nature trails in the area surrounding the waterfall (Phliu National Park).


One the road to Phliu, you can turn right off onto a small road  right. After you reach Wat Khao Ta Nim from where you used to be able to walk 400 meters up a hill to see a precariously balanced huge rock that is shaped like an old Chinese merchant ship. So, the rock is called Hin Sumpao Jeen. But last I was there, they had cut down all the vegetation on the hillside and seemed about to plant rubber trees, so now it may be that you will have to trek across somebody's plantation.
At the mouth of the road leading to Phliu (i.e., on Sukhumvit Road), you can stop and visit Wat Mangkon Buppharam to see a temple in Chinese style architecture. 

Monday, December 19, 2011

Chantaburi - Khao Khitchakut

Khao Khitchakut is one of Thailand's smallest national parks, but has a some wildlife (including barking deer and gaur), nature trails as well as a couple of waterfalls like Khrathing Watefall, which is seen from a distance in this picture. 


However, for two months each year, the park's Phrabat Mountain (just over 1,000 meters tall with a big rock at the top) is the destination for thousands and thousands of pilgrims that converge every day during those two months in order to hike to the summit to pray at Buddha's footprint.
Common wisdom has it that if you can make it to the top, you will be granted a wish. However, now that so many is doing this pilgrimage, hear-say has it that now you have to make at least three pilgrimages before a wish is granted.
As could be expected, this pilgrimage has developed into a major business for the locals. They will charge fees for parking space at the foot of the mountain. You are told you cannot drive yourself and the wonders of monopoly ensures that the locals offering to drive you up can charge an arm and a leg for the 3-4 km ride. After that, then you have to hike for another 3 km to reach the top. 
Since there are so many cramming in on the trail, it is the crowd and not the steepness that limits your progress. So, a round-trip pilgrimage can take 6-10 hours leaving you quite exhausted or at least exasperated when you're finally back at your parked car. 

If you continue further up north towards Sa Kaeo Province, you'll find Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary and the16-level Nam Tok Khao Soi Dao. Before that, you can stop near Pong Nam Ron to see a hot spring.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Bangkok - Father's Day 2011


His Royal Majesty Bhumibol Adulyadej's birthday is December 5th. Each year, Thais celebrate that in a big way, e.g., with boat processions, singing contests, decorative lights on main thoroughfares etc.

For the first time in many many years, access to the Royal Palace Grounds and to Wat Phra Kaew was open during evening hours. Thousands of Bangkokians turned up to enjoy the spectacular sights.

This year, HRM the King turned 84 and thus started a new 7-year cycle.

I took a few snapshots in palace grounds and around Sanam Luang on December 7th. Below is link to my blog from last year.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/12/bangkok-fathers-day.html

Monday, December 5, 2011

Rayong - Khao Chamao

Khao Chamao and Khao Wong National Park are located in Klaeng District.  3-4 km from entrance to Khao Chamao, you can find the Klong Pla Kang waterfall. It is a lot more impressive and beautiful than Khao Chamao waterfall, but it is also rather difficult to reach. During the rainy season, the access road gets so muddy and slippery that the rangers often don't allow people to enter.



Khao Chamao waterfall is the most famous and visited attraction. Turn off the highway (Sukhumvit Road) at km 274 and continue for around 16 kilometers. The waterfall has seven levels and reaching the top levels requires ascending on a very rocky trail. The rocks can get very slippery during the rainy season, so the rangers often block the trail at level 5.


There are of course various types of trees and plants, but what surprised me was the information that this (relatively) small patch of forest is the last remaining old-growth forest on the Eastern Seaboard.


At the second level (called "Wang Mutcha") there is a pond, which is brimming with fish. They have become icons of this waterfall and it is a must for visitors to feed them.

If you are allowed to enter and park, ahead awaits a sturdy walk through the forest followed by a relatively steep climb up the mountain. Steep and slippery - one rainy day, I fell on the rocks and hurt my back. One of the occasions where an afternoon spent in front of the TV seemed a better option.


If you have the time and the stamina to do the climbs, however, a visit to Khao Chamao national park will reward you with a good feel of exploring a real rain forest where you may run into real "wildlife" like the little bugger pictured to the right. 


After the climbs, there is a wonderful beach about 10 km from Laem Mae Phim (in direction of Ban Phe), which is relatively deserted.   

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Nakhon Ratchasima - Sai Ngam


This public park – named after a nearby village – houses an impressive old tree. Inside the “park”, there is a number of small restaurants, a pond, and a banyan tree. The tree is said to be almost 400 years old, but instead of growing tall and fat, this tree has spent its time spreading out over a large area. According to a sign under the tree, its branches cover an area of 3,500 square feet. Why the sign writer chose to use an American measure of measure is a bit of a mystery, but the equivalent area is 325 square meters.

The pond is artificial as it is actually a small part of the Mun (pronounced moon) River that has been dammed up. That it is a banyan tree that has spread out like this is taken to be important because the Lord Buddha supposedly achieved enlightenment while meditation under the shade of a banyan tree.

The tree has not been promoted much as a tourist destination and is not that well-known even among Thai tourists. Tthe number of signs leading to the park is low and all signs are in Thai. I had not visited the tree for a very long time and passed the park and had to U-turn at the village. In my defense, I’d say that at my previous visits, there was no wall fencing in the tree so this time, I basically ignored the wall.


Anyway, the visit brought back memories of my first trips to Nakhon Ratchasima… to Sai Ngam, Phi Mai, Phi Mai National Museum, Dan Kwian pottery village, Suranaree Technical University, Korat city, and to the WorldTech exhibition. Back then, I was of course younger and was then enlisted to do the obligatory rounds under the belly of the elephant monument downtown.

Back then, construction work at Suranaree Technical University’s campus was only half finished, but classes had started. Today, Suranaree Technical University is in full operation. On campus is the unusual Northeastern Museum of Petrified Wood. Apparently, there are less than ten museums in the world focused on petrified wood, so if that's your thing, it is a must see. 

The museum is in fact well-organized and interesting. A visit is worthwhile. 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Nakhon Ratchasima - Phimai Historical Park


The park is one of the grandest and certainly the most famous Khmer historical site in Thailand. It was one of several sites where pilgrims traveling between the Khmer/Angkor kingdom and India could seek sanctuary.

Despite the Phimai Historical Park being under the same regional head of national parks as Khao Phanom Rung (another famous Khmer sanctuary), the staff at Phimai are more willing to listen to arguments that foreign visitors can enter paying a “Thai” ticket price of 20 baht instead being forced to pay 150 baht.

The Phimai Sanctuary is rectangular in shape, 565 meters wide and 1,030 meters long. It consists of ornately carved structures made of sandstone and laterite. From stone inscriptions and the architectural style, it is surmised that the Phimai Sanctuary was built at the end of the 11th century.

The Naga Bridge is near the park entrance, south of the main pagoda. The intention was for the bridge to represent a link between earth and heaven. The main pagoda is on an open area in a curved walkway. It is the centre of the site and is made entirely of white sandstone and is different from the porches and walls that are made primarily of red sandstone. The pagoda is 28 meters high, has a square base, a portico and stairways and doors in all 4 directions.

The pagoda consists of a base, outer walls, columns, and porches with beautiful designs and lintels. The layout is (of course) like a direct replica of what can be found at Angkor. Of vital importance are the lintels that mostly recount the tale of Ramayana from Hinduism and tales of the Mahayana sect of Buddhism.

Near the historical park is Phimai National Museum. The museum houses exhibits on the past cultural prosperity of the Northeast.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Bangkok - Crystal Design Center

I realized I haven't blogged much about Bangkok, the center of the (Thai) universe. There are so many diverse things to do in Bangkok that it doesn't make sense to me to write about it. 


However, I will mention Crystal Design Center. Partly because it was a very trendy place in 2011 -- who knows about 2012? -- and partly because the name is totally misleading to an ignorant person like me. At first, I heard about it as CDC, so I thought of Commonwealth Development Corporation (UK) and Centers for Disease Control (US). Then I thought it would be a center showcasing artsy crystal design.


Alas, Crystal is just a name and doesn't refer to any glass products. And the focus is on selling rather than on being artsy.

CDC is the most comprehensive and integrated Design Center in Southeast Asia showcasing architectural, interior, decorating and construction brand name or "designer" products. Or put it another way, it is a lifestyle home department store for people that want stylish and expensive stuff for the home.


There are more than 500 shops and 10,000 brands across 22 buildings. Ad on top the outdoor market stalls that open up late afternoon and you can easily shop until you drop. 


http://www.crystaldesigncenter.com/


Now, since this is a destination for Thais, there are of course also plenty of food outlets including some very hip pubs, bars, and bistros, such as "WINEILOVEYOU", which in 2011 has been one of the must-visit places for young trendy Bangkokians.


http://wineiloveyou.com/


It is definitely advisable to book a table in advance on weekends and better come before dark falls if you want to easily secure a parking space instead of having to fight to get on. That being said, wineiloveyou was not quite up at par with similar venues (Wine Fusion or Wine Connection) in Bangkok proper (i. e., Thonglor / Ekamai). But I assume wineiloveyou was popular because it was new and because it is located a bit out of town, yet close to an expressway exit.


It may well turn out be be a fad like Mansion 7 in Ratchadapisek Soi 14


http://www.themansion7.com/index.html


This "boutique thriller mall" combined food, fashion, and fear and was the talk of the town for about 7-8 months, but has now slipped into obscurity.