Surat Thani - Koh Phangan

I had vowed not to return to Koh Phangan as the island surely would be different than when I first visited. That was back in the days before Full Moon Party was invented, when no road connect Had Rin to the rest of the island, when there was no electricity and no swimming pools. But I had a business appointment on the island, so I decided to combine it with some R&R.

Had Rin Nai

Had Rin Nai is still a very nice beach, but Had Rin Nok is not that great. And the area behind it is now packed with structures put up with no prior planning making roads and alleys a maze. Many structures are shoddy constructions intended to house party revelers in bunk beds. Delicious food is not to be had as bars and sellers of buckets (with alcohol of questionable origins) outnumber restaurants on Had Rin Nok. The service staff are mostly from Myanmar and have little training, which can result in interesting combinations being served. For example, I was given chopsticks as utensils for a plate of Italian pasta.

That being said, Koh Phangan has many beaches apart from Had Rin. A drive along the coast from Thong Sala to Ban Chalok Lam will take you past several nice bays, which I would prefer over Had Rin, but none of them can be said to be deserted. I went to see Ban Chalok Lam because when I first visited, that bay was used as a graveyard for fishing vessels. When fishing vessels were retired from service, they were pulled up on the beach and cannibalized for parts.

Thong Nai Pan Beach

Ban Thong Nai Pan used to be hard to reach, but the road has now been upgraded - when I first visited, it could only be reached on horseback.

They worked when we bought them - why check if they still work?

On the ferry back to the mainland, I noticed that safety concerns are not high on the list of the ferry company's priorities.

Surat Thani - Chaiya (2)

I already mentioned Wat Praborommathatchaiyaratchaworawiham in an earlier blog and this is definitely a destination worth going to again.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2011/10/surat-thani-chaiya.html

This time, however, I took the time to explore some hot springs in Chaiya. Only a few kilometers away from Wat Praborommathatchaiyaratchaworawiham -- down the small road that also passes the ruins of an ancient stupa --  is a small but steep hill with a couple of small caves. The hill is also the source of a hot spring. Since times as ancient as Wat Praborommathatchaiyaratchaworawiham, the hot spring was used to feed two pools. According to signs at the site, it was people of Indian origin who brought with the a tradition for hot baths as part of religious rites. The two caves also became "holy".

Hot but not enticing

Since these hot ponds turned out to be useless, I sought the advice from my GPS. It informed me that there were another hot spring relatively nearby. This hot spring -- about 4 km outside of town -- was much more difficult to find, partly because of a lack of signage, but primarily because my GPS indicated I should take a road that did not exist.

Hot mineral water

I eventually ventured along a gravel road that lead to a temple on the top of a hill. Just at the foot of the hill, a couple of ponds had been constructed from concrete. But, again, the area and the facilities appeared deserted and unused. The mineral water overflow from the concrete ponds discolored the rocks as it made its way down hill for form a small lake. The rocks looked to my untrained eye somewhat like lava, but was in Thai named Lan Lonk Prachan.

Chonburi - Pattaya Fireworks

Every year in November, Pattaya City arranges a fireworks competition stretching over two evenings where several nations vie for the honors. I have enjoyed the view both from the exclusivity (USD 100 tickets) of Hilton’s terrace bar and from a less luxurious beach chair (USD 1.50).

The view from up high at Hilton is far better than from shore side, but down at street level one meets more interesting aspects of real life. Last year, a Russian enjoyed the show together with a bottle of Thai whiskey. When the bottle was almost empty, he decided to go for a swim. Fully dressed and seriously drunk, he made it waist-high into the sea before he collapsed. Several good Samaritans rushed to pull the Russian back on the beach where he sat, drenched and smiling, for the rest of the show. 

Nakhon Ratchasima - Tublan Adventure

I went in search of Khao Phang Ma view point on edge of Tublan National Park in the hope of being able to see some gaurs (wild Indian bison or oxen) from afar.

The viewpoint (hill) was not easy to find. Directions on internet were contradictory and my two GPS gave two different locations. I opted for one of these locations. When I missed a turn, the GPS then immediately indicated a short-cut. This turned out to be the worst advice ever given.

The short-cut lead me to drive down a steep muddy descent (no way of getting back up that slippery slope), cross a creek, drive on an overgrown rarely used track, crawl between two small lakes, and then face a muddy incline. It looked easy, but I ended up sliding back down again and again and eventually got stuck. After numerous attempts of digging and piling stones into the ever deeper holes my tires dug, I went for help.

I encountered two national park rangers (apparently, at the steep decline was where I entered the national park), but after some pushing, they came to the same conclusion as me: truck dug in too deep.

Then they went to a nearby village and came back with a guy on a 4WD tractor. He pulled me (backwards) up from the hole, but in the mud, my pick-up started sliding to the left, down towards a small lake. He continued to pull me backwards but jerked to the right. The over-compensation resulted in the truck sliding directly into the bigger lake on the right of the narrow track.

From stuck, I was now REALLY stuck and partly under water.

His 4WD tractor could not pull me anywhere. He sent for a guy with a bigger tractor. 

Disaster has struck

However, rather than pulling me up, he almost ended up being stuck on the same hill where I had encountered problems. After much maneuvering, all his tractor did was making the mud even deeper and stickier.

The guys then sent for a manual winch. After some hard work, the truck got half way out of the water. They sent for another manual winch. The truck got almost out of the water.

Now, while all this is going on, it drizzles but increasing quantities of Thai whisky is being consumed so everybody is in a good mood. In fact, a couple of more guys (and a tractor) arrive to part take in the drinking and winching. People jump into and out of the lake in order to wash off the mud and there is almost a party mood while the dusk settles.

Around six hours have passed and there were now 6-8 villagers taking part in the rescue operation ("taking part" includes mostly drinking). Then a 4WD tractor finally pull the pick-up backwards and up from the lake.

Up it finally comes

Finally up on terra firma. I made a U turn. Winches and people were piled up in the back up my truck. Then, there was the issue that ... I could not go the same way back as I then would have to climb (in the dark) the steep muddy incline where I had first entered the national park.

So, after some palaver, the least drunk villager suggested to chain my truck to a tractor and pull me along a barely visible track through the national park. At one spot, I got stuck again. After several attempts, I got pulled up that hill by two tractors.

The worst was over. The last couple of kilometers, the track was still very muddy, but without inclines so I powered through and out.

Then it was time for dinner (and more whisky) with the rescuers who also received some cash hand outs for their time and efforts without which my truck would still be stuck in that lake.

Next day, I easily made it to the viewpoint without taking any shortcuts.

Nakhon Ratchasima - Khao Phaeng Ma

This hill, which apparently to some resembles the neck of a horse, is located in Wang Nam Khiao district between the borders of Prachinburi Province and Tublan National Park. The peak is 850 meters above sea level. The viewpoint is relatively easy to reach, only four kilometers from the main road. The last part is a rugged dirt road, but I saw several sedans make the trip.

Upon reaching the top, there are views towards Tublan. The Khao Phaeng Ma forest area is under the care of the Wildlife Foundation of Thailand. It covers an area of 16 square kilometers. Activities include trekking along an 1,800 meter track and animal watching.

The main attraction is to spot some of the few remaining wild gaurs. A gaur is a dark-coated bovine native to Southeast Asia and the Indian Subcontinent. It can grow bigger than the African buffalo and water buffalo. It is also in the context of Indian safari tourism called Indian bison.

In Thailand, the gaur is nearly extinct, but has found a safe haven in Tublan, especially in and near the Khao Phaeng Ma forest area. However, gaurs do on occasion venture outside their designated habitat as nearby corn fields provide tempting appetizers.

If you have patience, luck, and a telescopic lense, you can catch a glimpse of gaurs gathering around a salt lick. If not, you can pose with the gaur statue erected at the viewpoint.

Roi Et - Wat Pha Namthip Thep Prasit Varanam

Remembering names is not easy. I was in western Yasothon when somebody spoke highly about Wat Pha Namthip. This was supposedly an amazing temple, which I should not give a miss. So, I followed the directions given and soon crossed into Roi Et province where signs started mentioning Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol.  It turned out that there are two names for the same temple. Locals use the name of the temple whereas visitors tend to use the more grand name for the chedi. 

And it turned out that I have been there before.

http://tinamue.blogspot.com/2010/01/roi-et-phra-maha-chedi-chai-mongkhon.html

This time, repair and refurbishment work on the chedi was in process, so it was not easy to take pictures of the impressive interior without scaffolding or tools getting in the way.

From the outside, the pagoda is still impressive as well as huge (101 x 101 meters at the base and 101 meters high). To reach the uppermost room, one has to climb a narrow staircase, before one can pay one's respects as well as donate money to the on-going refurbishment work.

Nakhon Pathom - Buddhamonthon

The district is called phutthamonthon, but inside the park, the signs spells it Buddhamonthon. The park covers an area of 2,500 rai and was opened in 1957 to commemorate that it was 2,500 years since the birth of the Lord Buddha. 

After a long pause construction on the park resumed slowly in 1976 and the main Buddha statue was cast in 1981. The statue is almost 16 meters high and in a circle around the statue are sites representing the four main stages in the life of Lord Buddha: his birth, his Enlightenment, his first sermon, and his death.

The park also houses a museum and several ponds. People can relax under the shade of trees and enjoy the tranquility away from the hustle and noise of modern life.

In late 2011, the park was flooded for weeks on end. Almost USD 20 million were spent on draining the area and cleaning up the park